40 MALDOX.VDO. [CHAP. ni. 



He eyed me with much suspicion; perhaps he had heard of ablu- 

 tions in the Mahomedan religion, and knowing me to be a heretick, 

 probably he came to the conclusion that all hereticks were Turks. 

 It is the general custom in this country to ask for a night's lodging 

 at the first convenient house. The astonishment at the compass, 

 and my other feats of jugglery, was to a certain degree advantage- 

 ous, as with that, and the long stories my guides told of my 

 breaking stones, knowing venomous from harmless snakes, collect- 

 ing insects, etc., I repaid them for their hospitality. I am writing 

 as if I had been among the inhabitants of central Africa : Banda 

 Oriental would not be flattered by the comparison ; but such were 

 my feelings at the time. 



The next day we rode to the village of Las Miiias. The country 

 was rather more hilly, but otherwise continued the same; an 

 inhabitant of the Pampas no doubt would have considered it as 

 truly Alpine. The country is so thinly inhabited, that during the 

 whole day we scarcely met a single person. Las Minas is much 

 smaller even than Maldonado. It is seated on a little plain, and is 

 surrounded by low rouky mountains. It is of the usual symmetri- 

 cal form ; and with its whitewashed church standing in the centre, 

 had rather a pretty appearance. The outskirting houses rose out 

 of the plain like isolated beings, without the accompaniment of 

 gardens or courtyards. This is generally the case in the country, 

 and all the houses have, in consequence, an uncomfortable aspect. 

 At night we stopped at a pulperia, or drinking-shop. During 

 the evening a great number of Gauchos came in to drink spirits 

 and smoke cigars: their appearance is very striking; they are 

 generally tall and handsome, but with a proud and dissolute 

 expression of countenance. They frequently wear their moustaches 

 and long black hair curling down their backs. With their brightly 

 coloured garments, great spurs clanking about their heels, and 

 knives stuck as daggers (and often so used) at their waists, they 

 look a very different race of men from what might be expected 

 from their name of Gauchos, or simple countrymen. Their polite- 

 ness is excessive ; they never drink their spirits without expecting 

 you to taste it; but whilst making their exceedingly graceful 

 bow, they seem quite as ready, if occasion offered, to cut your 

 throat. 



On the third day we pursued rather an irregular course, as I was 

 employed in examining some beds of marble. On the fine plains of 



