104 BAHIA BLANCA TO BUENOS AYEES. [CHAP, vi 



stayed the night at the posta, the conversation, as was generally 

 the case, being about the Indians. The Sierra Ventana was 

 formerly a great place of resort ; and three or four years ago 

 there was much fighting there. My guide had been present 

 when many Indians were killed : the women escaped to the top of 

 the ridge, and fought most desperately with great stones ; many 

 thus saving themselves. 



September llth. Proceeded to the third posta in company with 

 the lieutenant who commanded it. The distance is called fifteen 

 leagues; but it is only guess-work, and is generally overstated. 

 The road was uninteresting, over a dry grassy plain ; and on our 

 left hand at a greater or less distance there were some low hills ; a 

 continuation of which we crossed close to the posta. Before our 

 arrival we met a large herd of cattle and horses, giiarded by fifteen 

 soldiers ; but we were told many had been lost. It is very diffi- 

 cult to drive animals across the plains ; for if in the night a puma, 

 or even a fox, approaches, nothing can prevent the horses dispers- 

 ing in every direction ; and a storm will have the same effect. A 

 short time since, an officer left Buenos Ayres with five hundred 

 horses, and when he arrived at the army he had under twenty. 



Soon afterwards we perceived by the cloud of dust, that a party 

 of horsemen were coming towards us ; when far distant my com- 

 panions knew them to be Indians, by their long hair streaming 

 behind their backs. The Indians generally have a fillet round 

 their heads, but never any covering ; and their black hair blowing 

 across their swarthy faces, heightens to an uncommon degree the 

 wildness of their appearance. They turned out to be a party of 

 Bernantio's friendly tribe, going to a salina for salt. The Indians 

 eat much salt, their children sucking it like sugar. This habit is 

 very different from that of the Spanish Gauchos, who, leading the 

 same kind of life, eat scarcely any ; according to Mungo Park,* it 

 is people who live on vegetable food who have an unconquerable 

 desire for salt. The Indians gave us good-humoured nods as they 

 passed at full gallop, driving before them a troop of horses, and 

 followed by a train of lanky dogs. 



September \1tli and 13th. I staid at this posta two days, waiting 



for a troop of soldiers, which General Kosas had the kindness to 



send to inform me, would shortly travel to Buenos Ayres ; and he 



advised me to take the opportunity of the escort. In the morning 



* Travels in Africa, p. 233. 



