140 BANDA ORIENTAL. CCHAI-. vm. 



visited the trees, on which they arc said to sharpen their claws ; 

 but we did not succeed in disturbing one. From this point the 

 Eio Uruguay presented to our view a noble volume of water. From 

 the clearness and rapidity of the stream, its appearance was far 

 superior to that of its neighbour the Parana. On the opposite 

 coast, several branches from the latter river entered the Uruguay. 

 As the sun was shining, the two colours of the waters could be 

 seen quite distinct. 



In the evening we proceeded on our road towards Mercedes on the 

 Eio Negro. At night we asked permission to sleep at an estancia 

 at which we happened to arrive. It was a very large estate, being 

 ten leagues square, and the owner is one of the greatest landowners 

 in the country. His nephew had charge of it, and with him there 

 was a captain in the army, who the other day ran away from 

 Buenos Ayres. Considering their station, their conversation was 

 rather amusing. They expressed, as was usual, unbounded aston- 

 ishment at the globe being round, and could scarcely credit that n 

 hole would, if deep enough, come out on the other side. They 

 had, however, heard of a country where there were six months of 

 light and six of darkness, and where the inhabitants were very 

 tall and thin ! They were curious about the price and condition 

 of horses and cattle in England. Upon finding out we did not 

 catch our animals with the lazo, they cried out, " Ah, then, you 

 use nothing but the bolas : " the idea of an enclosed country was 

 quite new to them. The captain at last said, he had one question 

 to ask me, which he should be very much obliged if I would answer 

 with all truth. I trembled to think how deeply scientific it would 

 be: it was, "Whether the ladies of Buenos Ayres were not the 

 handsomest in the world." I replied, like a renegade, "Charm- 

 ingly so." He added, " I have one other question : Do ladies in any 

 other part of the world wear such large combs?" I solemnly 

 assured him that they did not. They were absolutely delighted. 

 The captain exclaimed, "Look there! a man who has seen half the 

 world says it is the case ; we always thought so, but now we know 

 it." My excellent judgment in combs and beauty procured me a 

 most hospitable reception ; the captain forced me to take his bed, 

 and he would sleep on his recado. 



21s. Started at sunrise, and rode slowly during the whole day. 

 The geological nature of this part of the province was different 

 from the rest, and closely resembled that of the Pampas. In con- 



