206 TIERRA DEL FUEGO. [CHAP. x. 



happiness, of whatever kind it may be, to render life worth having. 

 Nature by making habit omnipotent, and its effects hereditary, has 

 fitted the Fuegian to the climate and the productions of his miserable 

 country. 



After having been detained six days in Wigwam Cove by very 

 bad weather, we put to sea on the 30th of December. Captain 

 Fitz Eoy wished to get westward to land York and Fuegia in their 

 own country. When at sea we had a constant succession of gales, 

 and the current was against us : we drifted to 57 23' south. On 

 the llth of January, 1833, by carrying a press of sail, we fetched 

 within a few miles of the great rugged mountain of York Minster 

 (so called by Captain Cook, and the origin of the name of the elder 

 Fuegian), when a violent squall compelled us to shorten sail and 

 stand out to sea. The surf was breaking fearfully on the coast, 

 and the spray was carried over a cliff estimated at 200 feet in 

 height. On the 12th the gale was very heavy, and we did not 

 know exactly where we were : it was a most unpleasant sound to 

 hear constantly repeated, " keep a good look-out to leeward." On 

 the 13th the storm raged with its full fury : our horizon was narrowly 

 limited by the sheets of spray borne by the wind. The sea looked 

 ominous, like a dreary waving plain with patches of drifted snow : 

 whilst the ship laboured heavily, the albatross glided with its ex- 

 panded wings right up the wind. At noon a great sea broke over 

 us, and filled one of the whale-boats, which was obliged to be 

 instantly cut away. The poor Beagle trembled at the shock, and 

 for a few minutes would not o^oey her helm; but soon, like a good 

 ship that she was, she righted and came up to the wind again. 

 Had another sea followed the first, our fate would have been de- 

 cided soon, and for ever. We had now been twenty-four days 

 trying in vain ta get westward ; the men were worn out with 

 fatigue, and they had not had for many nights or days a dry thing 

 to put on. Captain Fitz Roy gave up the attempt to get westward 

 by the outside coast. In the evening we ran in behind False Capo 

 Horn, and dropped our anchor in forty-seven fathoms, fire flashing 

 from the windlass as the chain rushed round it. How delightful 

 was that still night, after having been so long involved in the din 

 of the warring elements ! 



January 15th, 1833. The Beagle anchored in Goeree Roads. 

 Captain Fitz Roy having resolved to settle the Fuegians, according 



