216 TiERRA DEL FUEGO. [CHAP. x. 



difference the circumstance of being quite superior in force made, 

 in the interest of beholding these savages. While in the boats I got 

 to hate the very sound of their voices, so much trouble did they 

 give us. The first and last word was " yammerschooner." When, 

 entering some quiet little cove, we have looked round and thought 

 to pass a quiet night, the odious word "yammerschooner" has 

 shrilly sounded from some gloomy nook, and then the little signal- 

 smoke has curled up to spread the news far and wide. On leaving 

 some place we have said to each other, " Thank Heaven, we have 

 at last fairly left these wretches!" when one more faint hallo from 

 an all-powerful voice, heard at a prodigious distance, would reach 

 our ears, and clearly could we distinguish " yammerschooner." 

 But now, the more Fuegiaus the merrier ; and very merry work it 

 was. Both parties laughing, wondering, gaping at each other ; we 

 pitying them, for giving us good fish and crabs for rags, etc. ; they 

 grasping at the chance of finding people so foolish as to exchange 

 such splendid ornaments for a good supper. It was most amusing 

 to see the undisguised smile of satisfaction with which one young 

 woman with her face painted black, tied several bits of scarlet cloth 

 round her head with rushes. Her husband, who enjoyed the very 

 universal privilege in this country of possessing two wives, evi- 

 dently became jealous of all the attention paid to his young wife ; 

 and, after a consultation with his naked beauties, was paddled 

 away by them. 



Some of the Fuegians plainly showed that they had a fair notion 

 of barter. I gave one man a large nail (a most valuable present) 

 without making any signs for a return ; but he immediately picked 

 out two fish, and handed them up on the point of his spear. If 

 any present was designed for one canoe, and it fell near another, 

 it was invariably given to the right owner. The Fuegian boy, 

 whom Mr. Low had on board, showed, by going into the most 

 violent passion, that he quite understood the reproach of being 

 called a liar, which in truth he was. We were this time, as on all 

 former occasions, much surprised at the little notice, or rather none 

 whatever, which was taken of many things, the use of which must 

 have been evident to the natives. Simple circumstances such as 

 the beauty of scarlet cloth or blue beads, the absence of women, 

 our care in washing ourselves, excited their admiration far more 

 than any grand or complicated object, such as our ship. Bougain- 

 ville has well remarked concerning these people, that they treat 



