1834.] ASCENT OF MOUNT TARN. 223 



]>lagucd us. As there Avere many instruments, clothes, and men 

 on shore, it was thought necessary to frighten them away. The 

 first time a few great guns were fired, when they were far distant. 

 It was most ludicrous to watch through a glass the Indians, as 

 often as the shot struck the water, take up stones, and, as a bold 

 defiance, throw them towards the ship, though about a mile and 

 a half distant! A boat was then sent with orders to fire a few 

 muskets-shots wide of them. The Fuegians hid themselves behind 

 the trees, and for every discharge of the muskets they fired their 

 arrows; all, however, fell short of the boat, and the officer as he 

 pointed at them laughed. This made the Fuegians frantic with 

 passion, and they shook their mantles in vain rage. At List, 

 seeing the balls cut and strike the trees, they ran away, and we 

 were left in peace and quietness. During the former voyage the 

 Fuegians were here very troublesome, and to frighten them a 

 rocket was fired at night over their wigwams ; it answered effec- 

 tually, and one of the officers told me that the clamour first raised, 

 and the barking of the dogs, was quite ludicrous in contrast with 

 the profound silence which in a minute or two afterwards prevailed. 

 The next morning not a single Fuegian was in the neighbourhood. 

 When the Beagle was here in the month of February, I started 

 one morning at four o'clock to ascend Mount Tarn, which is 2GOO 

 feet high, and is the most elevated point in this immediate district. 

 We went in a boat to the foot of the mountain (but unluckily not 

 to the best part), and then began our ascent. The forest com- 

 mences at the line of high-water mark, and during the first two 

 hours I gave over all hopes of reaching the summit. So thick was 

 the wood, that it was necessary to have constant recourse to the 

 compass ; for every landmark, though in a mountainous country, 

 was completely shut out. In the deep ravines, the death-like 

 scene of desolation exceeded all description ; outside it was blowing 

 a gale, but in these hollows, not even a breath of wind stirred the 

 leaves of the tallest trees. So gloomy, cold, and wet was every 

 part, that not even the fungi, mosses, or ferns could flourish. In 

 the valleys it was scarcely possible to crawl along, they were so 

 completely barricaded by great mouldering trunks, which had 

 fallen down in every direction. When passing over these natural 

 bridges, one's course was often arrested by sinking knee deep 

 into the rotten wood; at other times, when attempting to lean 

 against a firm tree, one was startled by finding a mass of decayed 



