230 MOUNT SARMIENTO. tciui-. xi. 



lurid sky, were seen at different distances and heights. In the 

 midst of such scenery we anchored at Cape Tarn, close to Mount 

 Sarrniento, which was then hidden in the clouds. At the base of 

 the lofty and almost perpendicular sides of our little cove there 

 was one deserted wigwam, and it alone reminded us that man 

 sometimes wandered into these desolate regions. But it would be 

 difficult to imagine a scene where he seemed to have fewer claims 

 or less authority. The inanimate works of nature rock, ice, snow, 

 wind, and water all warring with each other, yet combined against 

 man here reigned in absolute sovereignty. 



June $Ht In the morning we were delighted by seeing the veil 

 of mist gradually rise from Sarmieuto, and display it to our view. 

 This mountain, which is one of the highest in Tierra del Fuego, 

 has an altitude of 6800 feet. Its base, for about an eighth of its 

 total height, is clothed by dusky-woods, and above this a field of 

 snow extends to the summit. These vast piles of snow, which 

 never melt, and seem destined to last as long as the world holds 

 together, present a noble and even sublime spectacle. The outline 

 of the mountain was admirably clear and defined. Owing to the 

 abundance of light reflected from the white and glittering surface, 

 no shadows were cast on any part ; and those lines which intersected 

 the sky could alone be distinguished : hence the mass stood out in 

 the boldest relief. Several glaciers descended in a winding course 

 from the upper great expanse of snow to the sea-coast : they may 

 be likened to great frozen Niagaras ; and perhaps these cataracts 

 of blue ice are full as beautiful as the moving ones of water. By 

 night we reached the western part of the channel ; but the water 

 was so deep that no anchorage could be found. We were in con- 

 sequence obliged to stand off and on in this narrow arm of the sea, 

 during a pitch-dark night of fourteen hours long. 



June IQth. In the morning we made the best of our way into 

 the open Pacific. The western coast generally consists of low, 

 rounded, quite barren hills of granite and greenstone. Sir J. Xar- 

 borough called one part South Desolation, because it is "so 

 desolate a land to behold : " and well indeed might he say so. 

 Outside the main islands, there are numberless scattered rocks on 

 which the long swell of the open ocean incessantly rages. We 

 passed out between the East and West Furies ; and a little farther 

 northward there are so many breakers that the sea is called the 

 Milky Way. One sight of such a coast is enough to make a lands- 



