242 CENTRAL CHILE. Iciui'. xu. 



they are seen. When the sun was setting in the Pacific, it was 

 admirable to watch how clearly their rugged outlines could be 

 distiugiiished, yet how varied and how delicate were the shades of 



their colour. 



I had the good fortune to find living here Mr. Eichard Corfield, 

 an old schoolfellow and friend, to whose hospitality and kindness 

 I was greatly indebted, in having afforded me a most pleasant 

 residence during the Beagle's stay in Chile. The immediate 

 neighbourhood of Valparaiso is not very productive to the 

 naturalist. During the long summer the wind blows steadily 

 from the southward, and a little off shore, so that rain never 

 falls ; during the three winter months, however, it is sufficiently 

 abundant. The vegetation in consequence is very scanty : except 

 in some deep valleys, there are no trees, and only a little grass and 

 a few low bushes are scattered over the less steep parts of the hills. 

 "When we reflect, that at the distance of 850 miles to the south, 

 this side of the Andes is completely hidden by one impenetrable 

 forest, the contrast is very remarkable. I took several long 

 walks while collecting objects of natural history. The country 

 is pleasant for exercise. There are many very beautiful flowers ; 

 and, as in most other dry climates, the plants and shrubs possess 

 strong and peculiar odours even one's clothes by brushing through 

 them became scented. I did not cease from wonder at finding each 

 succeeding day as fine as the foregoing. What a difference does 

 climate make in the enjoyment of life! How opposite are the 

 sensations when viewing black mountains half enveloped in clouds, 

 and seeing another range through the light blue haze of a fine day ! 

 The one for a time may be very sublime ; the other is all gaiety and 

 happy life. 



August ~L4:th. I set out on a riding excursion, for the purpose of 

 geologizing the basal parts of the Andes, which alone at this time 

 of the year are not shut up by the winter snow. Our first day's 

 ride was northward along the sea-coast. After dark we reached 

 the Hacienda of Quintero, the estate which formerly belonged to 

 Lord Cochrane. My object in coming here was to see the great 

 beds of shells, which stand some yards above the level of the sea, 

 and are burnt for lime. The proofs of the elevation of this whole 

 line of coast are unequivocal : at the height of a few hundred feet 

 old-looking shells are numerous, and I found some at 1300 feet. 

 These shells either lie loose on the surface, or are embedded in a 



