1*31.] r/r IT/LOTA. 247 



marked : the Guaso does not by any means consider every man his 

 equal ; and I was quite surprised to find that my companions did 

 not like to eat at the same time with myself. This feeling of in- 

 equality is a necessary consequence of the existence of an aristocracy 

 of wealth. It is said that some few of the greater landowners 

 possess from five to ten thousand pounds sterling per annum : an 

 inequality of riches which I believe is not met with in any of the 

 cattle-breeding countries eastward of the Andes. A traveller does 

 not here meet that unbounded hospitality which refuses all pay- 

 ment, but yet is so kindly offered that no scruples can be raised in 

 accepting it. Almost every house in Chile will receive you for the 

 night, but a trifle is expected to be given in the morning ; even a 

 rich man will accept two or three shillings. The Gaucho, although 

 he may be a cut-throat, is a gentleman ; the Guaso is in few respects 

 better, but at the same time a vulgar, ordinary fellow. The two 

 men, although employed much in the same manner, are different in 

 their habits and attire ; and the peculiarities of each are universal 

 in their respective countries. The Gaucho seems part of his horse, 

 and scorns to exert himself except when on his back : the Guaso 

 may be hired to work as a labourer in the fields. The former lives 

 entirely on animal food ; the latter almost wholly on vegetable. 

 We do not here see the white boots, the broad drawers, and scarlet 

 chilipa ; the picturesque costume of the Pampas. Here, common 

 trousers are protected by black and green worsted leggings. The 

 poncho, however, is common to both. The chief pride of the Guaso 

 lies in his spurs, which are absurdly large. I measured one which 

 was six inches in the diameter of the rowel, and the rowel itself 

 contained upwards of thirty points. The stirrups are on the same 

 scale, each consisting of a square, carved block of wood, hollowed 

 out, yet weighing three or four pounds. The Guaso is perhaps 

 more expert with the lazo than the Gaucho ; but, from the nature 

 of the country, he does not know the use of the bolas. 



August 18t7i. "We descended the mountain, and passed some 

 beautiful little spots, with rivulets and fine trees. Having slept at 

 the same hacienda as before, we rode during the two succeeding 

 days up the valley, and passed through Quillota, which is more like 

 a collection of nursery-gardens than a town. The orchards were 

 beautiful, presenting one mass of peach-blossoms. I saw, also, in 

 one or two places the date-palm; it is a most stately tree; and I 

 should think a group of them in their native Asiatic or African 



