202 CIIILOE, [< IIAI-. xni. 



humble, quiet, illustrious set of men. Although the fertile soil, 

 resulting from the decomposition of the volcanic rocks, supports a 

 rank vegetation, yet the climate is not favourable to any pro- 

 duction which requires much sunshine to ripen it. There is very 

 little pasture for the larger quadrupeds ; and in consequence, the 

 staple articles of food are pigs, potatoes, and fish. The people all 

 dress iu strong woollen garments, which each family makes for 

 itself, and dyes with indigo of a dark blue colour. The arts, how- 

 ever, are in the rudest state ; as may be seen in their strange 

 fashion of ploughing, their method of spinning, grinding corn, and 

 in the construction of their boats. The forests are so impenetrable, 

 that the land is nowhere cultivated except near the coast and on 

 the adjoining islets. Even where paths exist, they arc scarcely 

 passable from the soft and swampy state of the soil. The inhabi- 

 tants, like those of Tierra del Fuego, move about chiefly on the 

 beach or in boats. Although with plenty to eat, the people arc 

 very poor : there is no demand for labour, and consequently the 

 lower orders cannot scrape together money sufficient to pur- 

 chase even the smallest luxuries. There is also a great deficiency 

 of a circulating medium. I have seen a man bringing on his back 

 a bag of charcoal, with which to buy some trifle, and another carry- 

 ing a plank to exchange for a bottle of wine. Hence every trades- 

 man must also be a merchant, and again sell the goods which he 

 takes in exchange. 



November 24<A. The yawl and whale-boat were sent under the 

 command of Mr. (now Captain) Sulivan, to survey the eastern or 

 inland coast of Chiloe ; and with orders to meet the Beagle at the 

 southern extremity of the island ; to which point she would pro- 

 ceed by the outside, so as thus to circumnavigate the whole. I 

 accompanied this expedition, but instead of going in the boats the 

 first day, I hired horses to take me to Chacao, at the northern ex- 

 tremity of the island. The road followed the coast; every now and 

 then crossing promontories covered by fine forests. In these shaded 

 paths it is absolutely necessary that the whole road should be 

 made of logs of wood, which are squared and placed by the side of 

 each other. From the rays of the sun never penetrating the ever- 

 green foliage, the ground is so damp and soft, that except by this 

 means neither man nor horse would be able to pass along. I 

 arrived at the village of Chacao, shortly after the tents belonging 

 to the boats were pitched for the night. 



