18H5.] OHILOE. 281 



occasionally a long reach of this avennc could be behold, it pre- 

 sented a carious scsnc of uniformity : the white line of logs, narrow- 

 ing in perspective, became hidden by the gloomy forest, or terminated 

 in a zigzag which ascended some steep hill. 



Although the distance from S. Carlos to Castro is only twelve 

 leagues in a straight line, the formation of the road must have 

 been a great labour. I was told that several people had formerly 

 lost their lives in attempting to cross the forest. The first who 

 succeeded was an Indian, who cut his way through the canes in 

 eight days, and reached S. Carlos: he was rewarded by the Spanish 

 government with a grant of land. During the summer, many of 

 the Indians wander about the forests (but chiefly in the higher 

 parts, where the woods are not quite so thick) in search of the 

 half-wild cattle which live on the leaves of the cane and certain 

 trees. It was one of these huntsmen who by chance discovered, 

 a few years since, an English vessel, which had been wrecked on 

 the outer coast. The crew were beginning to fail in provisions, 

 and it is not probable that, without the aid of this man, they 

 would ever have extricated themselves from these scarcely pene- 

 trable woods. As it was, one seaman died on the march, from 

 fatigue. The Indians in these excursions steer by the sun ; so that 

 if there is a continuance of cloudy weather, they cannot travel. 



The day was beautiful, and the number of trees which were in 

 full flower perfumed the air; yet even this could hardly dissipate 

 the effect of the gloomy dampness of the forest. Moreover, the 

 many dead trunks that stand like skeletons, never fail to give to 

 these primeval woods a character of solemnity, absent in those of 

 countries long civilized. Shortly after sunset we bivouacked for 

 the night. Our female companion, who was rather good-looking, 

 belonged to one of the most respectable families in Castro: she 

 rode, however, astride, and without shoes or stockings. I was 

 surprised at the total want of pride shown by her and her brother. 

 They brought food with them, but at all oiir meals sat watching 

 Mr. King and myself whilst eating, till we were fairly shamed into 

 feeding the whole party. The night was cloudless; and while 

 lying in our beds, we enjoyed the sight (and it is a high enjoy- 

 ment) of the multitude of stars which illumined the darkness of 

 the forest. 



January 23>'d. We rose early in the morning, and reached the 

 pretty quiet town of Castro by two o'clock. The old governor had 



