282 CHILOE. [CHAP. xiv. 



died since our last visit, and a Chileno was acting in his place, 

 We had a letter of introduction to Don Pedro, whom we found 

 exceedingly hospitable and kind, and moi-e disintei-ested than is 

 usual on this side of the continent. The next day Don Pedro 

 procured us fresh horses, and offered to accompany us himself. 

 We proceeded to the south generally following the coast, and 

 passing through several hamlets, each with its large barn-like 

 chapel built of wood. At Vilipilli, Don Pedro asked the com- 

 mandant to give us a guide to Cucao. The old gentleman offered 

 to come himself; but for a long time nothing would persuade him 

 that two Englishmen really wished to go to such an out-of-the- 

 way place as Cucao. We were thus accompanied by the two 

 greatest aristocrats in the country, as was plainly to be seen in 

 the manner of all the poorer Indians towards them. At Chonchi 

 we struck across the island, following intricate winding paths, 

 sometimes passing through magnificent forests, and sometimes 

 through pretty cleared spots, abounding with corn and potato 

 crops. This undulating woody country, partially cultivated, re- 

 minded me of the wilder parts of England, and therefore had to 

 my eye a most fascinating aspect. At Vilinco, which is situated 

 on the borders of the lake of Cucao, only a few fields were cleared ; 

 and all the inhabitants appeared to be Indians. This lake is 

 twelve miles long, and runs in an east and west direction. From 

 local circumstances, the sea-breeze blows very regularly during 

 the day, and during the night it falls calm : this has given rise 

 to strange exaggerations, for the phenomenon, as described to us 

 at S. Carlos, was quite a prodigy. 



The road to Cucao was so very bad that we determined to 

 embark in a periagua. The commandant, in the most authoritative 

 manner, ordered six Indians to get ready to pull us over, without 

 deigning to tell them whether they woiild be paid. The periagua 

 is a strange rough boat, but the crew were still stranger : I doubt 

 if six uglier little men ever got into a boat together. They pulled, 

 however, very well and cheerfully. The stroke-oarsman gabbled 

 Indian, and uttered strange cries, much after the fashion of a pig- 

 driver driving his pigs. We started with a light breeze against 

 us, but yet reached the Capella de Cucao before it was late. The 

 country on each side of the lake was one unbroken forest. In the 

 same periagua with us, a cow was embarked. To get so large an 

 animal into a small boat appears at first a difficulty, but the 



