2S-1 CHILOE. [CHAP. XIY. 



much scratched. I was amused by observing the precaution our 

 Indian guide took, in turning up his trousers, thinking that they 

 were more delicate than his own hard skin. This plant bears a 

 fruit, in shape like an artichoke, in which a number of seed-vessels 

 are packed: these contain a pleasant sweet pulp, here nmch 

 esteemed. I saw at Low's Harbour the Chilotans making chichi, 

 ov cider, with this fruit : so true is it, as Humboldt remarks, that 

 almost everywhere man finds means of preparing some kind of 

 1 .overage from the vegetable kingdom. The savages, however, 

 of Tierva del Fuego, and I believe of Australia, have not advanced 

 ilms far in the arts. 



The coast to the north of Punta Huautamo is exceedingly rugged 

 and broken, and is fronted by many breakers, on which the sea is 

 eternally roaring. Mr. King and myself were anxious to return, 

 if it had been possible, on foot along this coast; but even the 

 Indians said it was quite impracticable. We were told that men 

 have crossed by striking directly through the woods from Cucao 

 to S. Carlos, but never by the coast. On these expeditions, the 

 Indians carry with them only roasted corn, and of this they eat 

 sparingly twice a day. 



26th. Re-embarking in the periagua, we returned across the 

 lake, and then mounted our horses. The whole of Chiloe took 

 advantage of this week of unusually fine weather, to clear the 

 ground by burning. In every direction volumes of smoke were 

 curling upwards. Although the inhabitants were so assiduous 

 in setting fire to every part of the wood, yet I did not see a single 

 fire which they had succeeded in making extensive. We dined 

 with our friend the commandant, and did not reach Castro till 

 after dark. The next morning we started very early. After 

 having ridden for some time, we obtained from the brow of a 

 steep hill an extensive view (and it is a rare thing on this road) 

 of the great forest. Over the horizon of trees, the volcano of 

 Corcovado, and the great flat-topped one to the north, stood out 

 in proud pre-eminence : scarcely another peak in the long range 

 showed its snowy summit. I hope it will be long before I forget 

 this farewell view of the magnificent Cordillera fronting Chiloe. 

 At night we bivouacked under a cloudless sky, and the next 

 morning reached S. Carlos. We arrived on the right day, for 

 before evening heavy rain commenced. 



February 4^. Sailed from Chiloe. During the last week I 



