500 VALPARAISO. [CHAP. xv. 



CHAPTEE XV. 



Valparaiso Portillo Pass Sagacity of Mules Mountain-torrents 

 Mines, how discovered Proofs of the gradual Elevation of the Cordillera 

 Effect of Snow on Eocks Geological Structure of the two main 

 Ranges, their distinct Origin and Upheaval Great Subsidence Rod 

 Snow Winds Pinnacles of Snow Dry and clear Atmosphere 

 Electricity Pampas Zoology of the opposite Side of the Andes 

 Locusts Great Bugs Mendoza Uspallata Pass Silicified Trees 

 buried as they grew Incas Bridge Badness of the Passes exagge- 

 rated Cumbre Casuohas Valparaiso. 



PASSAGE OF THE CORDILLERA. 



March 7th, 1835. We stayed three days at Concepcion, and then 

 sailed for Valparaiso. The wind being northerly, we only reached 

 the mouth of the harbour of Concepcion before it was dark. Being 

 very near the land, and a fog coming on, the anchor was dropped. 

 Presently a large American whaler appeared alongside of us ; and 

 we heard the Yankee swearing at his men to keep quiet, whilst 

 he listened for the breakers. Captain Fitz Roy hailed him, in a 

 loud clear voice, to anchor where he then was. The poor man 

 must have thought the voice came from the shore : such a Babel 

 of cries issued at once from the ship every one hallooing out, 

 " Let go the anchor ! veer cable ! shorten sail ! '' It was the most 

 laughable thing I ever heard. If the ship's crew had been all 

 captains, and no men, there could not have been a greater uproar 

 of orders. We afterwards found that the mate stuttered : I suppose 

 all hands were assisting him in giving his orders. 



On the llth we anchored at Valparaiso, and two days afterwards 

 I set out to cross the Cordillera. I proceeded to Santiago, where 

 Mr. Caldcleugh most kindly assisted me in every possible way in 

 making the little preparations which were necessary. In this part 

 of Chile there are two passes across the Andes to Mendoza : the 

 one most commonly used namely, that of Aconcagua or Uspallata 



