1835.] OJOS DEL AGUA. 321 



as would happen in such a case, was very distinct on one side. 

 The Bridge of the Incas is by no means worthy of the great monarchs 

 whose name it bears. 



5th. We had a long day's ride across the central ridge, from 

 the Incas Bridge to the Ojos del Agua, which are situated near 

 the lowest casucha on the Chilian side. These casuchas are round 

 little towers, with steps outside to reach the floor, which is raised 

 some feet above the ground on account of the snow-drifts. They 

 are eight in number, and under the Spanish government were kept 

 during the winter well stored with food and charcoal, and each 

 courier had a master-key. Now they only answer the purpose of 

 caves, or rather dungeons. Seated on some little eminence, they 

 are not, however, ill suited to the surrounding scene of desolation. 

 The zigzag ascent of the Cumbre, or the partition of the waters, 

 was very steep and tedious ; its height, according to Mr. Pentland, 

 is 12,454 feet. The road did not pass over any perpetual snow, 

 although there were patches of it on both hands. The wind on 

 the summit was exceedingly cold, but it was impossible not to stop 

 for a few minutes to admire, again and again, the colour of the 

 heavens,, and the brilliant transparency of the atmosphere. The 

 scenery was grand : to the westward there was a fine chaos of 

 mountains, divided by profound ravines. Some snow generally falls 

 before this period of the season, and it has even happened that the 

 Cordillera have been finally closed by this time. But we were most 

 fortunate. The sky, by night and by day, was cloudless, excepting 

 a few round little masses of vapour, that floated over the highest 

 pinnacles. I have often seen these islets in the sky, marking the 

 position of the Cordillera, when the far-distant mountains have 

 been hidden beneath the horizon. 



April 6th. In the morning we found some thief had stolen one 

 of our mules, and the bell of the madrina. We therefore rode only 

 two or three miles down the valley, and stayed there the ensuing 

 day in hopes of recovering the mule, which the arriero thought had 

 been hidden in some ravine. The scenery in this part had assumed 

 a Chilian character : the lower sides of the mountains, dotted over 

 with the pale evergreen Quillay tree, and with the great chandelier- 

 like cactus, are certainly more to be admired than the bare eastern 

 valleys ; but I cannot quite agree with the admiration expressed by 

 some travellers. The extreme pleasure, I suspect, is chiefly owing 

 to the prospect of a good fire and of a good supper, after escaping 



Y 



