1835.] COAST-ROAD TO COQUIMBO. 82.' 



CHAPTEK XVI. 



Coast-road to Coquimbo Great Loads carried by the Miners Coquiinbo 

 Earthquake Step-formed Terraces Absence of recent Deposits Con- 

 temporaneousness of the Tertiary Formations Excursion up the Valley 

 Road to Guasco Deserts Valley of Copiapo Rain and Earthquakes 

 -Hydrophobia The Despoblado Indian Ruins Probable change of 



Climate River-bed arched by an Earthquake Cold Gales of Wind 



Xoises from a Hill Iquique Salt Alluvium Nitrate of soda Lima- 

 Unhealthy Country Ruins of Callao, overthrown by an Earthquake- 

 Recent subsidence Elevated Shells on San Lorenzo, their decomposi- 

 tion Plain with embedded Shells and fragments of Pottery Antiquity 

 of the Indian Race. 



NORTHERN CHILE AND PERU. 



April 27th. I set out on a journey to Coquimbo, and thence 

 through Guasco to Copiapo, where Captain Fitz Eoy kindly offered 

 to pick me up in the Beagle. The distance in a straight line 

 along the shore northward in only 420 miles ; but my mode of 

 travelling made it a very long journey. I bought four horses and 

 two mules, the latter carrying the luggage on alternate days. The six 

 animals together only cost the value of twenty-five pounds sterling, 

 and at Copiapo I sold them again for twenty-three. We travelled 

 in the same independent manner as before, cooking our own meals, 

 and sleeping in the open air. As we rode towards the Vino del 

 Mar, I took a farewell view of Valparaiso, and admired its pic- 

 turesque appearance. For geological purposes I made a detour 

 from the high road to the foot of the Bell of Quillota. We passed 

 through an alluvial district rich in gold, to the neighbourhood of 

 Limache, where we slept. Washing for gold supports the inhabi- 

 tants of numerous hovels, scattered along the sides of each little 

 rivulet; but, like all those whose gains are uncertain, they are 

 unthrifty in their habits, and consequently poor. 



28M. In the afternoon we arrived at a cottage at the foot of 

 the Bell mountain. The inhabitants were freeholders, which is not 



