348 PERU. [Yii.M'. xvr. 



open, during the same night, the two churches, and stolen all the 

 plate : one of the robbers, however, subsequently confessed, and the 

 plate was recovered. The convicts were sent to Arequipa, which, 

 though the capital of this province, is two hundred leagues distant ; 

 the government there thought it a pity to punish such useful 

 workmen, who could make all sorts of furniture ; and accordingly 

 liberated them. Things being in this state, the churches were 

 again broken open, but this time the plate was not recovered. The 

 inhabitants became dreadfully enraged, and declaring that none 

 but heretics would thus " eat God Almighty," proceeded to torture 

 some Englishmen, with the intention of afterwards shooting them. 

 At last the authorities interfered, and peace was established. 



13th. In the morning I started for the saltpetre-works, a dis- 

 tance of fourteen leagues. Having ascended the steep coast-moun- 

 tains by a zigzag sandy track, we soon came in view of the mines 

 of Guantajaya and St. Eosa. These two small villages are placed 

 at the very mouths of the mines ; and being perched up on hills, 

 they had a still more unnatural and desolate appearance than the 

 town of Iquique. We did not reach the saltpetre- works till after 

 sunset, having ridden all day across an undulating country, a 

 complete and utter desert. The road was strewed with the bones 

 and dried skins of the many beasts of burden which had perished 

 on it from fatigue. Excepting the Yultur aura, which preys on 

 the carcasses, I saw neither bird, quadruped, reptile, nor insect. 

 On the coast-mountains, at the height of about 2000 feet, where 

 during this season the clouds generally hang, a very few cacti were 

 growing in the clefts of rock ; and the loose sand was strewed over 

 with a lichen, which lies on the surface quite unattached. This 

 plant belongs to the genus Cladonia, and somewhat resembles the 

 reindeer lichen. In some parts it was in sufficient quantity to 

 tinge the sand, as seen from a distance, of a pale yellowish colour. 

 Further inland, during the Avhole ride of fourteen leagues, I saw 

 only one other vegetable production, and that was a most minute 

 yellow lichen, growing on the bones of the dead mules. This was 

 the first true desert which I had seen : the effect on rnc was not 

 impressive ; but I believe this was owing to my having become 

 gradually accustomed to such scenes, as I" rode northward from 

 Valparaiso, through Coquimbo, to Copiapo. The appearance of 

 the country was remarkable, from being covered by a thick crust 

 of common salt, and of a stratified saliferous alluvium, which 



