NEW ZEALAND. [CHAP. xvni. 



in energy, but in every other respect his character is of a much 

 lower order. One glance at their respective expressions, brings 

 conviction to the mind that one is a savage, the other a civilized 

 man. It would be vain to seek in the whole of New Zealand a 

 person with the face and mien of the old Tahitian chief Utamme. 

 Xo doubt the extraordinary manner in which tattooing is hero 

 practised, gives a disagreeable expression to their countenances. 

 The complicated but symmetrical figures covering the whole face, 

 puzzle and mislead an unaccustomed eye : it is moreover probable, 

 that the deep incisions, by destroying the play of the superficial 

 muscles, give an air of rigid inflexibility. But, besides this, 

 there is a twinkling in the eye, which cannot indicate anything 

 but cunning and ferocity. Their figures are tall and bulky ; but 

 not comparable in elegance with those, of the working-classes in 

 Tahiti. 



Both their persons and houses are filthily dirty and offensive: 

 the idea of washing either their bodies or their clothes never seems 

 to enter their heads. I saw a chief, who was wearing a shirt black 

 and matted with filth, and when asked how it came to be so dirty, 

 he replied, with surprise, "Do not you see it is an old one?" 

 Some of the men have shirts; but the common dress is one or two 

 large blankets, generally black with dirt, which are thrown over 

 their shoulders in a very inconvenient and awkward fashion. A 

 few of the principal chiefs have decent suits of English clothes ; 

 but these are only worn on great occasions. 



December 23rd. At a place called Waimate, about fifteen miles 

 from the Bay of Islands, and midway between the eastern and 

 western coasts, the missionaries have purchased some land for 

 agricultural purposes. I had been introduced to the Rev. W. 

 Williams, who, upon my expressing a wish, invited me to pay him 

 a visit there. Mr. Bushby, the British resident, offered to take me 

 in his boat by a creek, where I should see a pretty waterfall, and 

 by which means my walk would be shortened. He likewise pro- 

 cured for me a guide. Upon asking a neighbouring chief to 

 recommend a man, the chief himself offered to go; but his igno- 

 rance of the value of money was so complete, that at first he asked 

 how many pounds I would give him, but afterwards was well 

 contented with two dollars. When I showed the chief a very 

 small bundle, which I wanted carried, it became absolutely neces- 

 sary for him to take a slave. These feelings of pride are beginning 



