1836.] ASCENSION. 



was qnito calm. Approaching close to the brink, where the current 

 seemed to be deflected upwards from the face of the cliff, I stretched 

 out my arm, and immediately felt the full force of the wind : an 

 invisible barrier, two yards in width, separated perfectly calm, air 

 from a strong blast. 



I so much enjoyed my rambles among the rocks and mountains 

 of St. Helena, that I felt almost sorry on the morning of the 14th 

 to descend to the town. Before noon I was on board, and the 

 Beagle made sail. 



On the 19th of July we reached Ascension. Those who have 

 beheld a volcanic island, situated under an arid climate, will at 

 once be able to picture to themselves the appearance of Ascension. 

 They will imagine smooth conical hills of a bright red colour, with 

 their summits generally truncated, rising separately out of a level 

 surface of black rugged lava. A principal mound in the centre of 

 the island, seems the father of the lesser cones. It is called Green 

 Hill : its name being taken from the faintest tinge of that colour, 

 which at this time of the year is barely perceptible from the 

 anchorage. To complete the desolate scene, the black rocks on the 

 coast are lashed by a wild and turbulent sea. 



The settlement is near the beach ; it consists of several houses 

 and barracks placed irregularly, but well built of white freestone. 

 The only inhabitants are marines, and some negroes liberated from 

 slave-ships, who are paid and victualled by government. There is 

 not a private person on the island. Many of the marines appeared 

 well contented with their situation ; they think it better to servo 

 their one-and-twenty years on shore, let it be what it may, than in 

 a ship : in this choice, if I were a marine, I should most heartily 

 agree. 



The next morning I ascended Green Hill, 2810 feet high, and 

 thence walked across the island to the windward point. A good 

 cart-road leads from the coast-settlement to the houses, gardens, 

 and fields, placed near the summit of the central mountain. On 

 the roadside there are milestones, and likewise cisterns, where each 

 thirsty passer-by can drink some good water. Similar care is dis- 

 played in each part of the establishment, and especially in the 

 management of the springs, so that a single drop of water may not 

 be lost : indeed the whole island may be compared to a huge ship 

 kept in first-rate order. I could not help, when admiring the 



