THE FIG. 185 



them, and where, at the same time, they will be kept 

 cool. The straightest, shortest-jointed, and best-ripened 

 growths of the previous season, about 8 inches long, 

 having a strong terminal bud, are best. In detaching 

 them from the parent plant, take with them an inch 

 or two of the two-year-old wood. All that is necessary 

 in preparing them for the cutting-pots is to cut them 

 cleanly through just at the union of the one year's 

 growth with the other. The middle of February is a 

 good time to put them into heat. Drain the required 

 number of 4-inch pots efficiently, and fill them firmly 

 with sandy loam. Make a hole in the centre of each 

 for a single cutting, and place a little sand under their 

 base and round them. Water them, to settle the sand 

 firmly about them, and plunge the pots in a bottom- 

 heat of 80 to 85 where the temperature of the air 

 does not exceed 60 at night, and shade them during 

 sunshine. It is desirable that the formation of roots 

 should be as nearly as possible contemporaneous with 

 top-growth. A rather strong bottom with a compara- 

 tively low air temperature favours this. Over- watering 

 must be avoided, and if they are placed in a close pro- 

 pagating-house, pine-pit, or dung-frame, very little will 

 be necessary to keep the soil moderately moist until 

 the buds begin to push and leaves are formed, after 

 which their getting once very dry may prove fatal to 

 them. If they do not root when they have formed a 

 leaf or two, they do so very soon after. Until they 

 do form roots keep the foliage moist, and do not expose 

 them to over-much air. By turning a plant or two 

 carefully out of their pots it can easily be ascertained 

 when they have formed roots, after which gradually 

 dispense with shading, and air more freely. 



Allow them to grow in the 4-inch pots till they have 



