Pruning and Training 



possess a small fruit bud at the base are cut 

 back so as to leave one good wood bud which 

 makes, later on, a sub-lateral or secondary shoot. 

 (3) Stronger shoots with a fruit bud as (2) and 

 possessing also about eight or ten good wood buds 

 are shortened so as to leave three of the latter, all of 

 which will probably make secondary shoots. 



Later on in July or August the three sub-laterals 

 from the (3) shoots will be reduced to one, and this 

 is cut away, as also are all other secondary shoots, in 

 September, so that finally there are no young growths 

 to cut back in winter. 



M. Lorette trains young trees on the same system 

 right from the beginning, using the young shoots 

 obtained from stipulary " eyes " to form the 

 branches. Secateurs should be used in all three of 

 the above systems of summer pruning. 



ROOT PRUNING. 



This is only necessary when a tree is making a 

 lot of wood and producing no fruit. Roots cut by 

 the spade should be cut again with a sharp knife, 

 if possible. To reach the roots right under the stem 

 I have often screwed an old chisel to a long stake 

 and probed with this until these roots were severed. 

 The operation entails labour and should only be 

 done as a last resort. (See also page 46.) 



A tourniquet made of wire fixed tightly round 

 the stem of a too vigorous tree is sometimes 

 employed to check the flow of sap and to induce 

 the tree to bear fruit. Iron bands are also used 

 for this purpose. Wounded bark, however, often 

 lets in Silver-leaf, Canker, etc., and this should be 

 kept in mind if these methods are practised. 



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