UP-STREAM BY CANOE TO CHIPEWYAN 



33 



the Hudson's Bay Company stuff from the landing to 

 the fort was pressed into service, and a cart started off 

 with my luggage for the landing in care of William, the 

 full-blooded Loucheux, of whom I have spoken as being 

 so clever in carving with the " crooked knife." 



I did not start until one o'clock, as McKinley was to 

 loan me his bronco. Fort Smith and the landing are the 

 only places in the country north of La Biche where the 

 luxury of horses is indulged, or indeed where they can 

 be used ; for in all this vast Northland there is no over- 

 land travel except on the portage at Fort Smith. Water- 

 courses are the highways of the country for canoes in 

 summer and for snow-shoes and sledges in winter. 



My ride across the portage on McKinley's bronco was 

 the first bit of leisurely travelling I had had. I knew 

 the ox-cart would not arrive until that night, and that I 

 should not be able to leave the landing until the follow- 

 ing morning. So I let the horse take his gait, while I fell 

 into a reminiscent mood. 



The last time I had crossed that portage was on 

 my return from the disappointing 

 bison hunt, when hunger and a 

 knowledge that McKinley had 

 moose meat gave speed to Munn 

 and me. Then the ground was 

 covered with snow, and the river 

 a great, white, frozen streak ; not a 

 sound in the woods of animal life 

 save the occasional whir of a startled 

 ptarmigan. Then the wonderful 



northern lights showed me the DIAGRAM OF BEAR-TRAP 

 trail. Now the sun shone down so 



warmly that I threw off my capote. All the snow was 

 gone, and in its place were water and mud. Now all the 



