12 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



a basket ? or wooden tray, on her head into which the pur- 

 chases are placed, when, after an indefinite amount of bar- 

 gaining and haggling, they have been consummated. In- 

 variably each receptacle contains a curious collection; a 

 number of green and ripe plantains; a slice of pumpkin; 

 a pepper, garlic, and a tomato; a chunk of meat, and a 

 papaya. Perhaps there may also be a bunch of yerba buena 

 and some achiote seeds with which to give a spicy flavor 

 and yellow color to the soup; but these condiments are, 

 unfortunately, used in such quantities that a goodly supply 

 is usually kept on hand even when there is no other food 

 in the house. 



The nights are delightful in Cali. A refreshing wind 

 springs up soon after sundown; the military band plays 

 in the plaza, lights twinkle and the breeze sighs through 

 the royal palms and orange-trees scattering broadcast snowy 

 petals and heavy perfume. Only the genie are admitted 

 into this little fairy-land. Gayly dressed and highly-rouged 

 women, clothed in the extreme of fashion, parade along 

 the winding walks; but it is considered in bad taste for 

 them to appear without an escort. The poorer class, ragged 

 and barefooted, gathers outside the iron fence and peers 

 through the bars; the children run and play noisily on the 

 neighboring streets. At last the bells in the cathedral boom 

 the hour of ten; the band plays the national anthem, when 

 every one stands, the men with uncovered heads. Then 

 the crowd disperses quietly and orderly. Soon the town is 

 wrapped in slumber with only the sighing wind and the 

 occasional shrill blasts of police whistles to disturb the 

 drowsy solitude. 



It was said, that Cali had a population of forty thou- 

 sand, but that figure doubtless included the populace of 

 the suburban districts for a considerable distance. The 

 city is bound to grow, however, on account of its favorable 

 location in the fertile Cauca Valley, which is one of the 

 garden spots of all South America. 



The Cauca River is about four miles distant from the 



