POPAYAN AND THE CERRO MUNCHIQUE 19 



A tent-show had been billed to appear here at some time 

 within the near future, and the arrival of our pack-train 

 was mistaken for that eagerly awaited event. The news 

 spread rapidly and before long the populace had turned out 

 en masse in the hope of getting a glimpse at the wonders 

 our trunks and duffel-bags were supposed to contain. Not 

 until we had taken refuge in the little posada or inn could 

 they be convinced of their error and induced to return to 

 their homes; but another surprise was in store for us. 



The many and enervating tasks of the day called for our 

 early retirement, and eight o'clock found us in our cots. 

 Great was our surprise to be awakened an hour later by 

 the sound of music at our very door. One of our men 

 was sent to the door to learn the cause of the serenade 

 and was told that the mayor of the town, with a delega- 

 tion of the chief officials and the band, had come to pay 

 us a visit. Of course, there was but one thing to do, and 

 half an hour later found us out on the special seats that 

 had been prepared, in full view of the visitors and perhaps 

 half of the villagers who had accompanied them. Then 

 followed speeches, singing, music, and a few native dances, 

 interspersed with short intervals for smoking, drinking (a 

 goodly supply of aguardiente had been brought along), and 

 conversation. The visitors remained until one in the morn- 

 ing; a rather lengthy call, to be sure, but a pleasant one, and 

 quite characteristic of the friendliness of the Colombians. 



The next day's ride of ten hours' duration brought us to 

 Buenos Aires, a very pretty little town nestling among and 

 almost obscured by gardens of flowers and orchards of 

 fruit. 



A heavy rain during the night had filled all the sink-holes 

 in the road with water, making progress slow on the follow- 

 ing day. We rounded Mount Saint Ignacio early in the 

 morning, and shortly after had our first view of the vol- 

 cano Purace; we were to learn more of this mountain in the 

 not distant future. Soon after, the lomas or great barren 

 hills appeared; they form a kind of connecting-link between 



