CARTAGO TO RUIZ AND SANTA ISABEL 63 



that seemed to lead in the right direction. We stumbled 

 along for two hours or more, and then realized that we 

 were lost. Darkness was fast approaching and a raw wind 

 swept down from the region of perpetual ice and snow. 

 We began to look for a sheltered spot in which to spend 

 the night, for it now seemed certain that each step was 

 only taking us farther from camp. Just then a rift in the 

 clouds appeared, and before it again closed we caught sight 

 of a faint glimmer far below and to the right. That could 

 mean but one thing: it was a reflection from the lake at 

 the head of "our" valley. For more than an hour we had 

 been travelling in exactly the opposite direction. We gave 

 up the thought of a bed of frailejon leaves without regret 

 and stumbled down the steep slope straight for the spot 

 where the lake had flashed into view. After many col- 

 lapses from thirst and fatigue we reached the brook with 

 its crystal, ice-cold water; then progress was easier, and 

 within another hour the glow of the camp-fire appeared 

 through the haze, and soon we were snugly ensconced in the 

 depths of our blankets. 



A few days after our journey to Ruiz the weather changed 

 greatly. Low-hanging fogs covered the paramo day and 

 night; lightning flashed among the clouds, and frigid gales 

 roared over the plateaus. These were signs of the coining 

 winter and warned us to leave the paramo before it was 

 too late. Soon there would be only snow and ice, pene- 

 trating mists, the reverberating roll of thunder, and blind- 

 ing displays of electricity. The elements would be un- 

 leashed and in all their grandeur, and awe-inspiring fright- 

 fulness take possession of the upper world. Life would 

 then be unendurable, so we accepted the warning and re- 

 turned to Salento. 



