66 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



boring forest; they yielded several novelties, among them 

 a splendid example of the military macaw (Ara m. mill- 

 tans). This gorgeously colored bird is rare, indeed, and 

 we have never seen more than two at the same time. Spec- 

 tacled bears were said to be common and to come to the 

 clearings when corn is ripe; the number of pelts exhibited 

 by the inhabitants amply verified their assertion. 



When Sunday came, and with it the gathering of people 

 always present when market is held, we had no trouble in 

 engaging the required peons, each of whom agreed to carry 

 a pack of seventy-five pounds. Early the next morning 

 they appeared, eager and ready for their undertaking. 

 They shouldered their loads and started away at a fast 

 gait, while we brought up the rear of the column to pre- 

 vent straggling. 



The way lay across a low, forested ridge, and then ad- 

 hered closely to the bamboo-covered banks of a small 

 stream called locally Rio Cabeceros or Rio Vueltas, but 

 which is really the headwaters of the Sipi River. At one 

 time we waded in the knee-deep water a distance of over 

 three miles, as it was easier than to force a way through 

 the matted plant life on either side. I soon discovered that 

 the porters did not possess the endurance of those we had 

 previously employed on other expeditions, and I believe 

 this was due to the fact that the use of coca leaves is un- 

 known in this part of Colombia. Whenever our peons had 

 an abundance of coca to chew they seemed tireless in the 

 performance of their work; those not given to the habit 

 required large and frequent meals, ate panela all day long 

 as they marched, and were capable of covering a short dis- 

 tance only in the course of a day's walk. We were com- 

 pelled to halt early and chose the top of a knoll for a camp- 

 ing site. 



A steady downpour of rain had fallen the entire after- 

 noon, which continued throughout the night, and this, 

 coupled with the severe cold (the elevation being seven 

 thousand two hundred feet) and the desirability of pre- 



