CHAPTER VIII 



ACROSS THE ANTIOQUIAN GOLD-FIELDS TO PUERTO 

 VALDIVIA ON THE LOWER CAUCA 



PUERTO BERRIO is not the most attractive spot in Co- 

 lombia, but it is nevertheless of a great deal of importance. 

 All steamers plying on the Lower Magdalena stop at that 

 port, the up-going ones after a six days 7 voyage from Bar- 

 ranquilla to discharge freight for Medellin, and those bound 

 down-stream to take aboard gold and other products of the 

 Antioquian highlands. 



The arrival of the steamer always causes a great deal 

 of confusion. Debarking passengers are required to look 

 after their own luggage, which is not a simple matter, as it 

 is invariably covered with mountains of boxes and bags on 

 the lower deck; and after it has been located it is necessary 

 to secure peons to convey it ashore, the ship's crew invari- 

 ably refusing to render this service. 



There is always a rush for the little hotel "Magdalena," 

 built on a slight bluff overlooking the river. Accommoda- 

 tions are limited, and those who arrive first naturally have 

 the advantage of selecting the cooler rooms in the upper 

 story. However, the advantages gained are partly imagi- 

 nary, at best. The climate is insufferably hot in the day- 

 time, and mosquitoes filtering through rents in the nets 

 protecting the beds are most annoying at night. Nor is it 

 possible to seek the cooling comfort of a bath; a small, 

 corrugated iron building in the garden is supposed to pro- 

 vide for this need, but a tank containing water for the 

 shower is placed on the roof in the full glare of the tropical 

 sun, and the water becomes heated to such a degree that it 

 is almost scalding. 



The town of Puerto Berrio is situated a few hundred 



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