FIFTEEN HUNDRED MILES ON THE ORINOCO 149 



Added to the danger of the shifting gales is a rapids 

 named San Jorge. There was just enough water to cover 

 the rocks which dot the river-bed, causing a series of cross- 

 currents and whirlpools which only a Venezuelan boat- 

 man, trusting mainly to luck, can hope to pass through. 

 The rigging of the Hilo de Oro was old and rotten, and 

 ropes were constantly snapping and sails splitting. No 

 matter how obvious a defect was, it was never remedied 

 until an accident had occurred. The boom had been 

 threatening to break as each sudden gust of wind struck 

 the mainsail, but a few boards nailed across the weakened 

 place it was hoped would give sufficient strength for any 

 emergency. An hour after leaving San Jorge, however, the 

 boom parted with a loud report and dropped into the water, 

 nearly upsetting the boat. Then, while the craft wallowed 

 on her side with the deck awash there ensued a good deal 

 of mingled praying, swearing, and frantic work until the 

 heavy boom was fished out of the water. We tied up at 

 the bank, cut down a tree, and worked the greater part of 

 the night replacing the broken member. 



One of the curious granite battlements rears its head out 

 of the water to a height of several hundred feet, and is 

 somewhat suggestive of a small edition of the famous Sugar- 

 Loaf Rock at the entrance to the harbor of Rio de Janeiro. 

 This is called Treasure Rock, and no Venezuelan ever passes 

 the spot without casting envious glances to the top. In the 

 days when the old Spaniards were still wandering over 

 the newly discovered lands in search of El Dorado, so the 

 story goes, they penetrated far into the Cerro Sipapo and 

 found rich treasures in gold and precious stones. The 

 Guajibo Indians, in whose domain they had penetrated and 

 whom they had robbed, finally tired of their unwelcome 

 guests and chased them down the river. In desperation 

 the Spaniards formed a stronghold on this island rock, driv- 

 ing iron spikes into its sides as a means of reaching the top; 

 for many weeks they resisted a siege by the savage hordes, 

 but with the coming of the rainy season the Indians with- 



