CHAPTER XI 

 THE MAQUIRITARES' LAND AND THE UPPER ORINOCO 



SAN FERNANDO, on the Atabapo, consists of about fifty 

 adobe huts of the usual type, and at the time of our arrival 

 was all but deserted. Almost the entire population had 

 gone up-river to the scattered rubber-camps, as this was 

 the season for collecting the valuable latex. 



The town is situated on the Atabapo, where this river 

 and the Guaviare unite, and its elevation above sea-level is 

 three hundred and seventy feet. The mean temperature is 

 about 80 F., although in the sun the mercury ascends to 

 112 F. or more, but the place is not particularly unhealthful. 



The water of the Guaviare is muddy, while that of the 

 Atabapo is of a clear red color and unfit for drinking. 

 There are few fish, no crocodiles or sand-flies, and practi- 

 cally no mosquitoes, all of which is attributed to the dis- 

 colored water. Two small springs near the town furnish 

 an abundant supply of potable water, and when during the 

 rainy season these are covered with the overflow from the 

 river it is necessary to paddle across and fill the water-jars 

 from the Guaviare. 



To secure a crew of men for our trip up the river was a 

 difficult undertaking and required a great deal of time. 

 This gave us an opportunity of exploring the surrounding 

 country. 



In the immediate vicinity of San Fernando the forest has 

 been cut down and tall second-growth sprouts form dense 

 thickets; this is a favorite resort of many small birds, and 

 several species of night-hawks make it a daytime rendez- 

 vous. The basic granite crops out in many places, the 

 strata occasionally standing on end, and it is often streaked 

 with narrow seams of quartz. There is no cultivation of 



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