CROSSING THE BOLIVIAN HIGHLANDS 295 



hemmed in the settlement on three sides, and the Rio 

 Chapare*, flowing through deep banks, formed the boundary 

 on the fourth side. 



The largest building was occupied by the corregidor, or 

 federal agent, who generously provided us with accommo- 

 dations; in addition to the several living-rooms there was 

 an immense wareroom stored with hides, salt, and other 

 articles of commerce. The remainder of the houses were 

 occupied by families of Bolivians who possessed land or 

 concessions in the neighborhood, and owned numbers of 

 Indians of the Yuracare tribe; these latter lived in long 

 sheds built in the rear of the dwellings of the people they 

 served. There was also a small church, but no shops of 

 any description. In spite of its inconsiderable size, Todos 

 Santos is a place of importance because it serves as an 

 outlet for commerce from Cochabamba and Bolivia in gen- 

 eral, and is the port of entrance for hides from Trinidad, 

 and merchandise entering by way of the Amazon and 

 Madeira-Mamore Railroad. A small steamer, the Ana 

 Catarina, was tied up against the bank, waiting for the 

 water to rise sufficiently for her to proceed down the river; 

 this boat plies more or less regularly between Todos Santos 

 and Trinidad, and requires three days for the downward 

 trip, and five days coming up. From Cochabamba to 

 Trinidad is a distance of approximately two hundred and 

 sixty-five miles, one hundred and sixty-five overland and 

 one hundred on the river. 



During the dry season steam-navigation on the Chapare 

 is very irregular, but canoes of large size and native pad- 

 dlers may always be had. During the rainy season there is 

 a small steamer or launch each fortnight. 



Several years before, the government had by law abol- 

 ished the practice of keeping Indians in the condition of 

 semislavery, and had ordered all owners to turn them over 

 to the missions; this, however, had not been done, and each 

 Bolivian family living at Todos Santos had a number of 

 Yuracares in its service. Not far from the settlement were 



