346 IN THE WILDS OF SOUTH AMERICA 



small-leaved vegetation; they belonged to mocking-birds, 

 pigeons, and finches; but only a few of them contained 

 eggs. The Indians had filled many of the little domiciles 

 with stones before they were completed in an attempt to 

 prevent an increase in the numbers of birds. Large flocks 

 of several species gather in the grain-fields during the fall 

 months and exact rather a heavy tribute, and it is for this 

 reason that the Indians try to prevent their increase. 



While riding along one morning we flushed a red-crested 

 woodpecker (Chrysoptilus cristatus) from a hole in a stub 

 near the road. The entrance to the cavity was about eight 

 feet up, but the nest was down low in the hollow trunk. 

 An investigation brought to view four pear-shaped, glossy, 

 white eggs lying on a pad of chips. 



This species is one of the commonest, and therefore one 

 of the best-known woodpeckers. We found it very abun- 

 dant throughout the uplands near, and south of Cocha- 

 bamba, where there was a growth of cacti and low trees. 

 Invariably there were two birds together, and not infre- 

 quently we saw flocks of four or five. It has a clear, power- 

 ful note, and a swift, undulating flight. I have frequently 

 seen it on the ground in company with long-billed wood- 

 hewers (Drymornis) and brown cachalotes (Homorus) search- 

 ing for insects and larvae among the debris always littering 

 the ground beneath the giant club-cacti. 



As we neared Sucre, a marked change was noticeable 

 in the appearance of the Indians. Instead of the unattrac- 

 tive lot that we had encountered daily, they were a uni- 

 formly garbed, more primitive and more picturesque people. 

 The greatest change was evident at Pulque, which we 

 reached a few weeks later. 



Tarabuco is the name given to a town of large size, 

 located on a frigid mesa over ten thousand feet up. When 

 we arrived there snow was falling and an icy wind blew at 

 terrific velocity; but the natives seemed not at all dis- 

 comfited by the blizzard, and were conducting the weekly 

 market with the usual hilarity. Provisions of many kinds 



