6O HEDGES, WINDBREAKS, SHELTERS, ETC. 



the whole length. If the trench dug for setting 

 your plants be a little deeper than needed for the 

 plants, and the bottom filled with rubble stone, this 

 will suffice, unless the soil is low. 



(c) As soon as planted and thoroughly soaked 

 to the surface, let your hedge be mulched. This 

 must never be overlooked or delayed. Use sawdust 

 if convenient, or coal ashes, if more convenient, 

 always those of anthracite coal. Bear in mind that 

 manure from the barnyard, and the commercial fer- 

 tilizers, have nothing to do with the soil in which 

 you place evergreens. If you wish to destroy your 

 hedge impromptu, use barnyard manure. 



(d) If the hedge plants were not cut back 

 before setting, let it be done at once, and let it be 

 done very severely. Bring all the plants into as 

 nearly the same size as possible. The only rule to 

 be given is to remove from one-third to two-thirds 

 of the wood, including all the long straggling and 

 irregular branches. The permanent shaping of the 

 hedge will require a watchful eye and careful hand 

 for not less than four or five years. Meanwhile the 

 hedge will have a somewhat open look, not altogether 

 beautiful, but closing up steadily into a solid wall. 



This shaping is the key to all your success or 

 failure. You cannot compel evergreens to continue 

 healthy if you insist on artificial forms of growth. 

 Whatever kind you are planting, study first its 

 natural method of growth and outlines as the trees 

 stand wild. Then follow very nearly these same 

 outlines as you train the bushes into a hedge. The 

 arbor-vitae should rise, on an easy slope from the 

 ground, to near what you intend shall be the top of 



