x A CHINESE RESTAURANT 247 



We went all over the Chinese quarter last night, 

 and it was very interesting. There are quite 40,000 

 Chinese, and one would think one was in China. I was 

 astonished at one of their restaurants, where we went 

 and got a cup of their tea which kept us both awake 

 half the night. It is a magnificent house, and several of 

 the Chinese at little tables, with the tiniest of cups and 

 saucers, huge spoons, and their characteristic chop- 

 sticks, looked so fairy-like ; the centre of the table 

 full of fruit ; magnificent massive chairs, and all the 

 furniture very rich. We also went to one of their 

 theatres, and were shown on to the stage and given chairs 

 there. The theatre was crammed with Chinese. The 

 acting was vigorous, and the noise of clanging music, 

 which never stopped, distracting. Every one smoked, 

 the orchestra and all, except the actors. The dresses 

 were gorgeous. We then visited some miserable dens, 

 where the poor wretches were lying half-dead, smoking 

 opium, and the stench was sickening. They looked 

 more dead than alive, and were little more than skele- 

 tons. We also visited a Joss House or Temple, and 

 saw their various idols in niches, like a Roman Catholic 

 altar, and incense burning before their gods. I have 

 got some glorious photos some for framing, too good 

 for a book. I have one of the large trees at Felton, 

 near Monterey. It will make a lovely picture." 



FROM HIS JOURNAL. 



Thursday -, 26th June. A lovely fresh morning. Up 

 at 5.30, and off on the stage for the Yosemite at seven. 

 Crossing the river, close to the hotel, we saw our first 

 Abies douglasii. The road rises at once, and was 

 covered with tracks of coyotes and foxes. Saw several 

 quail very tame, and woodpeckers, etc. Forest chiefly 



