THIRD VOYAGE 26$ 



beaten roads, and abundance of footpaths leading to every 

 part of the island. It is remarkable that when we were on 

 the most elevated parts, at least a hundred feet above the 

 level of the sea, we often met with the same coral rock 

 which is found at the shore ; and yet these very spots, 

 with hardly any soil upon them, were covered with 

 luxuriant vegetation. We saw some springs, but the water 

 was either stinking or brackish. 



" When we returned from our walk, which was not till the 

 dusk of the evening, our supper was ready. It consisted of 

 a baked hog, some fish, and yams, all excellently well 

 cooked, after the method of these islands. As there was 

 nothing to amuse us after supper, we followed the custom of 

 the country, and lay down to sleep, our beds being mats 

 spread upon the floor, and cloth to cover us. The king, 

 who had made himself very happy with some wine and 

 brandy which we had brought, slept in the same house, as 

 well as several others of the natives. 



" Early next morning they began to prepare a bowl of 

 kava. We had seen the drinking of this liquor sometimes 

 at the other islands, but by no means so frequently as here, 

 where it seems to be the only forenoon employment of the 

 principal people. The kava is a species of pepper, which 

 they cultivate for this purpose, and esteem it a valuable 

 article. It seldom grows to more than a man's height ; 

 it branches considerably, with large heart-shaped leaves and 

 jointed stalks. The root is the only part that is used. 

 They break it in pieces, scrape the dirt off with a shell, and 

 then each begins and chews his portion, which he spits into 

 a plantain leaf. The person who is to prepare the liquor 

 collects all these mouthfuls and puts them into a large 

 wooden dish or bowl, adding as much water as will make 

 it of a proper strength. It is then well mixed up with 

 hands ; and some loose stuff, of which mats are made, is 

 thrown upon the surface. The immediate effect of this 

 beverage is not perceptible on these people, who use it so 

 frequently ; but on some of ours, who ventured to try it,* 

 though so nastily prepared, it had the same power as spirits 

 have in intoxicating them ; or rather, it produced that 

 kind of stupefaction, which is the consequence of using 

 opium, or other substances of that kind. I have seen 

 them drink it seven times before noon, yet it is so dis- 

 agreeable, or at least seems so, that the greatest part of 

 them cannot swallow it without making wry faces and 

 shuddering afterward. 



" When we got on board the ship, I found that every- 

 thing had been quiet during my absence, not a theft having 

 been committed, of which Feenou and Futtafaihe, the king's 



