THIRD VOYAGE 417 



the outer ; and the household stuff of the inner, which was 

 the kitchen, was not less simple and scanty. But the kind 

 attention of our host, and the hearty welcome we received, 

 more than compensated for the poverty of his lodgings. 



" Whilst we were at dinner in this miserable hut, the 

 guests of a people with whose existence we had before been 

 scarcely acquainted, and at the extremity of the habitable 

 globe, a solitary half-worn pewter spoon, whose shape was 

 familiar to us, attracted our attention ; and on examination 

 we found it stamped on the back with the word London. 

 I cannot pass over this circumstance in silence, out of 

 gratitude for the many pleasant thoughts, the anxious hopes 

 and tender remembrances it excited in us. Those who 

 have experienced the effects that long absence and extreme 

 distance from their native country produce on the mind, 

 will readily conceive the pleasure such trifling incidents can 

 give. 



" We were now to quit the river, and perform the next 

 part of our journey on sledges. 



" After walking about the village, which contained 

 nothing remarkable, we returned to supper, and afterwards 

 took a short repose ; but we were soon awakened by the 

 melancholy bowlings of the dogs, which continued all the 

 time our baggage was lashing upon the sledges ; but as soon 

 as they were yoked, and we were all prepared to set out, this 

 changed into a light cheerful yelping, which entirely ceased 

 the instant they marched off. These dogs are in shape 

 somewhat like the Pomeranian breed, but considerably 

 larger. 



" As we did not choose to trust to our own skill, we had 

 each of us a man to drive and guide the sledge, which, from 

 the state the roads were now in, proved a very laborious 

 business. I had a very good-humoured Cossack to attend 

 me, who was, however, so very unskilful in his business, 

 that we were overturned almost every minute, to the great 

 entertainment of the rest of the company. Our party con- 

 sisted in all of ten sledges. That in which Captain Gore 

 was carried was made of tw'o lashed together, and abun- 

 dantly provided with furs and bear skins ; it had ten dogs, 

 yoked four abreast ; as had also some of those that were 

 heavy laden with baggage. 



" When we had proceeded about four miles it began to 

 rain ; which, added to the darkness of the night, threw us all 

 into confusion. It was at last agreed that we should remain 

 where we were till day-light ; and, accordingly, wrapping 

 ourselves up in our furs, we waited patiently for morning. 

 About three o'clock we were called on to set out, our guides 

 being apprehensive that if we waited longer we might be 

 68 H 



