THIRD VOYAGE 421 



understood we were in great want of, which they begged 

 to be indulged in presenting to the officers. Along with 

 these, Madame Behm had also sent a present for Captain 

 Clerke, consisting of fresh butter, honey, figs, rice, and some 

 other little things of the same kind, attended with many 

 wishes that in his infirm state of health they might be of 

 service to him. It was in vain we tried to oppose this pro- 

 fusion of bounty, which I was really anxious to restrain, 

 being convinced that they were giving away, not a share, 

 but almost the whole stock of the garrison. 



" We dined this day with Captain Shmaleff, and in the 

 afternoon, in order to vary our amusements, he treated us 

 with an exhibition of the Russian and Kamtschadale 

 dancing. No description can convey an adequate idea of 

 this rude and uncouth entertainment. The figure of the 

 Russian dance was much like those of our hornpipes, and 

 was performed either single, or by two or four persons at a 

 time. Their steps were short and quick, with the feet 

 scarce raised from the ground. But if the Russian dance 

 was ridiculous, the Kamtschadale was the most whimsical 

 idea than ever entered into any people's heads. It is 

 intended to represent the awkward and clumsy gestures of 

 the bear. The body was always bowed, and the knees 

 bent, whilst the arms were used in imitating the tricks and 

 attitudes of that animal. 



" As our journey to Bolcheretsk had taken up more time 

 than we expected, and were told that our return might prove 

 still more difficult and tedious, we were under the necessity 

 of acquainting the commander this evening with our in- 

 tention of setting out the next day. We were most agree- 

 ably surprised when the major told us, that if we could stay 

 one day longer he would accompany us,- as he should feel 

 great pleasure in returning with us to St. Peter and St. 

 Paul's, that he might himself be a witness of everything 

 done for us that it was in their power to do. 



" We afterwards dined with the commander, who, in 

 order to let us see as much of the manners of the inhabitants, 

 and of the customs of the country, as our time would permit, 

 invited the whole of the better sort of people in the village 

 to his house this evening. All the women appeared very 

 splendidly dressed, after the Kamtschadale fashion. The 

 whole was like some enchanted scene in the midst of the 

 wildest and most dreary country in the world. Our enter- 

 tainment again consisted of dancing and singing. 



" The next morning being fixed for our departure, we 

 retired early to our lodgings, where the first things we saw 

 were three travelling dresses, made after the fashion of the 

 country, which the major had provided for us. Indeed, 



