THE BAIT-CASTING ROD 23 



nor indeed can be, hence the rod breaks; if it breaks, 

 nine times out of ten, at the ferrule; just above or 

 below, usually below. This tendency is overcome to 

 a degree by using serrated ferrules, a matter to be 

 discussed later on, but even the serrated ferrule will 

 riot insure a rod against heavy strain. 



Where shall we place the ferrule in a two piece 

 rod, or rather, what shall be the relative length of 

 the two joints? I have experimented at some length 

 during the past few years and have found my experi- 

 ments quite costly, but as a result I am ready to 

 affirm that there is but one best construction for the 

 two piece caster, viz., short butt and long tip. 

 The farther down the rod we place the ferrule, or 

 in other words, the longer the tip, all else being 

 equal, the stronger the rod. Let the butt be rather 

 stocky but not actionless, though you should look to 

 the long tip for resiliency and casting power. The 

 butt will never break, the tip may, therefore, always 

 carry an extra one. Parenthetically: some of my two 

 piece rods have been in active service for upwards 

 of ten years, and to date, none of them have broken 

 or shown signs of weakness.) The butt should be 

 about z6 l /2 inches long, including the ferrule; and 

 the tip 35 inches, including ferrule and tip-top. 

 When assembled the rod is exactly 5 feet long. We 

 lose an inch and a half ferrule insertion. Practically 

 the ideal caster will be "two to three" that is, the 

 butt two feet and the tip three ; though actually, there 



