136 CASTING TACKLE AND METHODS 



tributed; now shove the warm ferrule home. That 

 is all there is to it. With the un-pinned ferrules the 

 job can be accomplished in a very few minutes. In 

 removing ferrules the round-nosed pliers are very 

 convenient, will not bend "up-set" the ferrule. Do 

 not attempt to use the small square-nosed pliers for 

 the work; they are certain to ruin the edge of the 

 ferrule. 



In the great majority of cases when a joint breaks 

 it breaks close up to the ferrule ; there is a reason for 

 this, as will appear in the next paragraph. When a 

 rod so breaks there is but one thing to do, remove 

 the broken end and replace the ferrule. Usually 

 there is sufficient wood protruding to offer the flat- 

 nosed pliers a hold. Holding with the pliers, pass the 

 flame of a match around the ferrule until the cement 

 begins to bubble out, the ferrule will then slip off 

 easily; to re-set, proceed as advised above. If too 

 large carefully reduce, using file and knife, the latter 

 as a scraper. If the ferrule is fastened with an 

 obstinate pin, or for any reason refuses to give up 

 the wood, it can always be burned out. Heat a piece 

 of wire a knitting needle is ideal until at white 

 heat and push against the wood, working from the 

 center outward. Do not heat the ferrule so as to 

 discolor it. Let me say here, however, that more 

 than once I have been compelled to stick the ferrule 

 right in the fire, when on a stream without tools, and 

 so burn the wood out. Ruins the appearance of the 



