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CHAPTER XIX. 



TO PAETENKIRCHEN. 



IT was about eight o'clock when the smart young 

 peasant, who drove us from Ammergau to Partenkir- 

 chen, set us down at the entrance of the high street 

 of the village, and bidding us farewell, cracked his 

 whip and took the road that, here diverging, leads to 

 Garmisch. From the principal inn issued the cheering 

 sound of merry human voices ; and the windows were 

 full of light, and there was a bustle and a hum that, 

 as one approached, rose upon the hush of the night, 

 and had a pleasant influence on the traveller seeking 

 a night's lodging. And there stands mine host such 

 a host as I always like to see of fair dimensions, and 

 in whose jolly face good-humour has ensconced itself. 

 He looks as pleased as though the light, and gaiety, 

 and hearty laughter emanated from him ; as though 

 he were the sun whose rosy presence thawed all into 

 merriment. And, for aught I know to the contrary, 

 it may have been so. He was a right jolly fellow, as 



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