28 ANTIRRHINUMS AND PENTSTEMONS 



desirable, to utilise boxes about 4 to 5 inches deep, taking 

 care to bore holes in the bottom, and cover with a layer 

 of rough drainage. 



The cuttings should in any case be placed in a cold 

 frame, choosing a position where they will not be 

 scorched by too much sun. Water overhead with a 

 rosed can, and keep the frame closed. Avoid giving too 

 much water, but during hot weather a light syringing 

 may be necessary occasionally to maintain freshness. 

 One little point should be observed when making and 

 handling Pentstemon cuttings. If the foliage is carelessly 

 handled, so that leaves are cracked or bruised, the cutting 

 will in all probability collapse and damp off. It is the 

 common practice of some propagators to cut off the ends 

 of the larger leaves, but it is folly to do so ; a great deal 

 of sap exudes from the wound thus caused, considerably 

 weakening the cutting. 



Within a month of insertion the cuttings should assume 

 a brighter tint, and the points of the shoots will appear 

 to be starting into fresh growth, indicating that roots 

 have begun to form. This should be a signal that fresh 

 air may be admitted to the frame during the warmest 

 part of the day, and often during September there will be 

 warm windless days when the glass covering may be 

 entirely removed for a few hours. Watering must then 

 be attended to, but it is best given early in the day, in 

 order that there may be no condensing moisture during 

 the chilly night hours. 



The young plants will remain in the frames throughout 

 winter, requiring only the additional protection of a thick 

 mat during very severe frosts. The cuttings rooted in 

 thumb pots may be potted on into 6o's during autumn, 

 but those in large pots or boxes will pass through the 

 winter undisturbed. Both these and those rooted in a 

 bed should, however, be potted in early spring, and will 

 be ready for final planting in the open by the latter end 



