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™^le sh 



ANTIRRHINUMS 13 



le shoot, but leave the "heel," which is the thickened 

 stalk at the junction with the main stem. Cut away a 

 couple of pairs of the lower leaves, and insert the lower 

 part of the cutting in a light compost of sifted leaf-mould 

 and loam with a liberal addition of sharp silver sand. The 

 cuttings may be put into shallow pans or boxes, or, 

 perhaps better still, close round the edges of 5-inch pots. 



The shoots which are calculated to make the best 

 cuttings are generally available in plenty during the 

 month of August, and at that season will root readily 

 under hand-lights or in cold frames situated where they 

 get good light, but not much sun. 



For the first fortnight or so they may be kept " close," 

 and after the first watering will be found to require but 

 Httle further moisture. 



As soon as the points of the shoots show signs of 

 putting forth small young leaves a little ventilation during 

 the middle of the day may be given, and thenceforth it 

 will soon be found that slight overhead waterings will be 

 beneficial. September is not too late to put in cuttings, 

 but it is not wise to propagate so late as to necessitate 

 artificial heat to assist rooting. The Antirrhinum should 

 be recognised as a hardy plant that requires no coddling, 

 and the less the plant is treated to fire-heat the better will 

 its robust and healthy constitution be maintained. 



In the early days of the new year the young rooted 

 rnttini^s should be potted off, and when the main shoot 

 begins to make rapid growth its tip should be pinched 

 out, to induce side-growths to break away, making bushy 

 young plants in time for the planting season. Hence- 

 forward the treatment of plants propagated from cuttings 

 should be the same as recommended for seedlings. 



A Few Hints on Growing for Exhibition. 



b grow Antirrhinums for the exhibition-table an effort 

 t be made to concentrate all the energy of the plant 



