26 



NEW ENGLAND FAEMER. 



Jak. 



some cities this is extensively done. In Rochester, 

 and in Brooklyn, N. Y., flourishing vines are found 

 in every part of the city, in the most compact, as 

 well as the sparsely settled portions ; and in late 

 summer and autumn, few of the citizens are un 

 supplied with tliis cooling and invigorating fruit. 



We have prepared this article at this time to 

 afford the o])portunity of suggesting a few things 

 in relation to planting, pruning, cuttings and layers 

 — but particularly that pruning may not be too long 

 delayed. 



"The object of pruning is to remove all superflu- 

 ous wood, and thereby strengthen the vine, so as to 

 render it long-lived, and capable of bearing and 

 ripening the proper quantity of grapes." The 

 proper season is, any time after the fall of the 

 leaves, and before the starting of the sap. As the 

 grape \'ine is very sensitive of the solar influences, 

 a few warm days, even in autumn, or in February, 

 may sometimes set the sap in motion ; early prun- 

 ing is therefore best, certainly as early as the first 

 of March, and earlier if convenient, say in Febru- 

 ary. 



LAYEKING GR.^J'E VINES. 



/ // / /// /Ui /H/IJ/I/I J II III IJ // /////// 



way is to plant them perpendicularly, making the 

 holes deep enough to have the upper bud half an 

 inch below the surface of the ground. 



Success in grape culture mainly depends upon 

 getting a large, healthy and vigorous root penetrat- 

 ing some one or two feet below the surface, and 

 surrounded by numbers of fibrous roots. These 

 stretch away in every direction, through the mel- 

 low soil, in search of the nourishment which they 

 require in order to load the vine with fruit. In 

 order to accomplish this, it will not answer to let 

 the vine have its own way, by throwing out numer- 

 ous branches, and extending some of them ten, 

 twenty, or perhaps thirty feet in a season. This 

 course would give a great crop of wood, and very 

 little fruit. After the cutting has grown one year, 

 it must be pruned back to within three eyes or buds 

 from the ground. This must be done the second 

 and third year, but leaving such side shoots as are 

 desired to extend horizontally. Prince says the 

 same general rule is to be observed in pruning 

 grapes that prevails in pruning trees, — to keep the 

 shoots sufficiently apart to admit the sun and air, 

 and not to cross and interfere with each other. We 

 are inclined to think something more is neces- 

 sary, and as cuts will illustrate much better 

 than words alone, we propose, by-and-by, to 

 take up the subject again, and speak more 

 particularly of the pruning required at the va- 

 rious ages of the vine. 



We cannot close now, however, without 

 earnestly recommending to all to make early 

 preparation to plant a Grape Vine. 



This cut very plainly illustrates the mode of lay- 

 ing down the shoots which spring out near the 

 ground, and from which valuable roots may be ob- 

 tained. The branch should be sunk some six or 

 eight inches below the surface, in a moist, light and 

 rich soil, and after the first year, half cut off", and 

 after the second, entirely, and then it is an inde- 

 pendent plant, standing upon its own roots. 



PLANTING CUTTINGS. 



Planting cuttings, the pieces being each about 

 twenty inches long, is the easiest, most certain, and 

 best way of i)ropagating the vine, and the cut an- 

 nexed very well illustrates the manner of doing it. 



Reemelin, in his Vine Dresser's Manual, says 

 the "cuttings" should be from healthy vines, not 

 more than ten nor less than three years old, and of 

 the early spring's growth of the previous year. His 



For the New England Fanner. 



A NEW WASH FOR TREES. 



Noticing an allusion to the washing of trees with 

 lye, by Mr. Underwood, in the JV. E. Farmer, of De- 

 cember 1st, I was reminded of the propriety of 

 again noticing a wash for apple trees which I have 

 used with satisfaction for the past three jears 

 Two years ago, I incidentally spoke of it in this 

 journal, and though out of season now, I venture to 

 again call attention to it, hopmg that some one else 

 may test it. 



Procure soap-stone dust, at the workers of soap- 

 stone, sift it to get out the stones, if you choose, 

 mix it up to the consistence of paint, with soap-suds, 

 and add a very little slaked hme, and if you Avish 

 to give it an agreeable tint, stir in a very little yel- 

 low ochre. Apply this mixture with a Inrush to 

 your young apple trees in the early part of the 

 summer, and it will prevent the growth of moss, 

 will keep the trunks cool, (which lye does not) and 

 Avill give them a handsome, neat and healthy ap- 

 pearance. 



Lye is dangerous, and requires much experience. 

 Lime is too stiff", and closes the pores of the bark. 

 Hut the soap-stone dust incorporates with tke bark, 

 and in the winter season, presents a handsome buff" 

 color, which cannot be rubbed oft". There is not 

 the least danger, I think, in the use of this wash, or 

 its incorporation into the bark, as the soap-stone 



