VII 



THE INDIAN OCEAN 



LEAVING Aden, and rounding the great prom- 

 -/ ontory of Cape Gardafui, we turned south 

 along the coast of Africa. Off the cape were strange, 

 oily cross rips and currents on the surface of the sea; 

 the flying fish rose in flocks before our bows; high 

 mountains of peaks and flat table tops thrust their 

 summits into clouds; and along the coast the breakers 

 spouted like whales. For the first time, too, we 

 began to experience what our preconceptions had 

 imagined as tropical heat. Heretofore we had been 

 hot enough, in all conscience, but the air had felt as 

 though wafted from an opened furnace door — dry 

 and scorching. Now, although the temperature was 

 lower,* the humidity was greater. A swooning 

 languor was abroad over the spellbound ocean, a 

 relaxing mist of enchantment. My glasses were 

 constantly clouding over with a fine coating of 

 water drops; exposed metal rusted overnight; the 

 folds i n garments accumulated mildew in an as- 



*82-88*' in daytime, and 7S-83** at night. 



49 



