HEART OF THE CONGO 367 



We were now climbing into a higher altitude, and 

 the nights were somewhat cooler, for which everyone 

 was thankful. Upon leaving the forest beliind, we 

 thought our itching and scratcliing days were past, for 

 the gnats and sand flies had disappeared. Now a small 

 grass fly took their place, doing very well at the task 

 of keeping a person miserable. These pesky insects 

 are so minute that the human eye can hardly detect 

 them, and, being so tiny, the mosquito nets were no 

 barrier. The torture we endured from these winged 

 tormentors confirms my opinion that this will never 

 become a popular tourist route. 



Nature balances all things; so, to compensate for 

 these villains of the insect world, she has Hberally 

 suppUed this tropical land with gorgeous butterflies, 

 with huge, showy moths, with dragon flies that dazzle 

 the eyes, and with multitudes of other harmless and 

 splendid creations. 



One evening we camped near a large village which 

 was inclosed by a stockade. The cliief sent messengers 

 inviting us to visit the royal hut. Upon arrival, we 

 found him and the other members of the court having 

 a beer-drinking contest, and they insisted upon our 

 sampling the product, which tasted like a mixture of 

 poor vinegar and worse cider. Within the inclosure 

 were grouped the huts belonging to the chief's many 

 wives. These women were all young and must have 

 been selected with great care from the entire tribe, for 

 they were much better looking and seemed a great deal 

 cleaner than any we had previously seen in this district. 



During the conversation I casually glanced at my 

 watch, whereupon the chief hurriedly issued some 

 orders. Presently a man came running back with a 



