BROCCOLI. 



BROCCOLI. 



in July ; and, finally, the last open-ground crop | 

 may be sown in June, to be pricked out in the : 

 succeeding month, and planted in August and 

 September; the plants will follow from the 

 others in succession throughout winter and 

 spring. In a frame, however, they may be 

 sown, like the cauliflower, in the last days of 

 August, to remain until the following March, 

 to be then planted out for production in early 

 summer. By these repetitions, which, if for a 

 family, should be small, an almost continued 

 supply is afforded ; but in general, for domes- 

 tic use, especially if the establishment is small, 

 three sowings of moderate extent will be suf- 

 ficient ; the first in the second week of April, 

 the second in the third week in May, and the 

 third in the middle of August, in a frame. 

 Each variety should be sown separately, and 

 the sowing performed thin ; the beds not more 

 than three or four feet wide, for the convenience 

 of weeding, which must be performed as often 

 as weeds appear, as they are very inimical to 

 the growth of this vegetable. The seed must 

 not be buried more than half an inch, and the 

 beds be netted over to keep away the birds, 

 which, especially in showery weather, are very 

 destructive. The fitness of the plants for prick- 

 ing out is intimated by their having five or six 

 leaves, rather more than an inch in breadth ; 

 they are set four or five inches apart each way, 

 and water given every night until they have 

 taken root. They must have four or five 

 weeks' growth before they are again moved ; 

 or not until they have leaves nearly three 

 inches in breadth. When planted out, they 

 must be set on an average two feet asunder 

 each way, in summer a little wider, in winter 

 rather closer. Water to be given at the time 

 of planting, and occasionally afterwards, until 

 they are established ; during the droughts of 

 summer it may be given plentifully with the 

 greatest advantage. They must be hoed be- 

 tween frequently, and the mould drawn up 

 about their stems. To force forward the win- 

 ter standing varieties, it is a successful prac- 

 tice to take them up in November, and after 

 trimming off the outer leaves, to lay them on 

 their sides in a sloping position, in a bank or 

 terrace of light earth, so much space being left 

 between every two plants that their heads do 

 not come in contact To continue the supply 

 uninterrupted, even in the mid-winter of the 

 severest years, Mr. Maher recommends that 

 when the crop sown about the third week in 

 May has been planted out, the weaker plants 

 which remain should be left eight or ten days 

 to acquire strength, and then planted in pots 

 (sixteens) filled with very rich compost ; to be 

 shaded, and watered until struck. These are 

 to be plunged in the ground at similar distances 

 as the main crops, and about three inches be- 

 low the surface, so as to form a cup for retain- 

 ing water round each; these cups are filled up 

 by the necessary earthings, which must be 

 pressed firmly down, tgjrcrevent the wind loos- 

 ening them. A few of* the plants generally 

 flower early, and, to guard against the first 

 frosts, must have the leaves broken over them : 

 but on the approach of settled frost in Decem- 

 ber and January, the pots must be taken up 

 and removed into a frame, shed, or any place 



of shelter from the extreme severity of the 

 weather; but to have air when mild. (Tra. 

 Hart. Soc. L. vol. i. p. 118.) 



To those crops which have to withstand the 

 winter in the open ground, salt is beneficially 

 applied, as it preserves them from being frosted 

 in the neck, and also their roots from being 

 worm-eaten ; which may also be effected, Mr. 

 Mackay of Errol House, N. B., informs us, by 

 pouring soap-suds between the rows, which 

 application is also very beneficial to the plants. 

 (Mem. Caled. Hort. Soc. vol. i. p. 275.) 



To preserve the winter standing crops from 

 destruction by severe weather, it is also a 

 practice, early in November, to take them up, 

 injuring the roots as little as possible, and to 

 lay them in a sloping direction in the soil, with 

 their heads to the north. A modification of 

 this plan, adopted by the distinguished presi- 

 dent of the Horticultural Society, is, however, 

 much preferable, as it obviates the defect of 

 few roots being produced, and consequently 

 diminutive heads. A small trench is made in 

 the first week of September, at the north end 

 of each row, in which the adjoining plant is 

 laid so low, that the centre of its stems at the 

 top is put level with the surface of the ground, 

 the root being scarcely disturbed ; it is then 

 immediately watered, and its roots covered 

 with more mould. Thus every plant is in 

 succession treated ; and by the beginning of 

 November, it is scarcely pe'rceptible that they 

 have been thus treated, though it certainly 

 checks their growth. Before the arrival of 

 snow, a small hillock must be raised round 

 each plant, to support its leaves, and prevent 

 their being broken. (Trans. Hort. Soc. Lond. 

 vol. ii. p. 304.) If snow accompanies severe 

 frost, advantage should be taken of it, and the 

 plants be heaped over with it, which will 

 afford them an effectual protection. 



For the production of seed, such plants of 

 each variety must be selected, in March or 

 April, as most perfectly agree with their pecu- 

 liar characteristics, and are not particularly 

 forward in advancing for seed. As the stems 

 run up, some gardeners recommend the leaves 

 to be taken away ; but this must be injurious. 

 Mr. Wood of Queensferry, North Britain, is 

 particularly careful that no foliage appears on 

 the surface of the flower ; he always lifts his 

 plants, and plants them in another bed, water- 

 ing abundantly; as this, from his long expe- 

 rience, he finds, prevents their degenerating, 

 or producing proud seed and when the head 

 begins to open, he cuts out its centre, and 

 leaves only four or five of the outside shoots 

 for bearing. The sulphur-coloured he always 

 finds the most difficult to obtain seed from. 

 (Mem. Caled. Hort. Soc. vol. ii. p. 266.) As the 

 branches spread, four or six stakes should be 

 placed at equal distances round each plant, 

 and hooped with string, to support them and 

 prevent their breaking. When the pods begin 

 to form, water should be given repeatedly, and 

 occasionally some thrown over the whole 

 plant, which tends to prevent mildew. Before 

 the pods begin to change colour, those from 

 the extremity of every shoot must be taken 

 away; as these yield seed which produce 

 plants very apt to mn to seed without heading, 



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