CH. II. INN AT SCOWRIE. 25 



haunts of numbers of otters. There seems a great 

 scarcity of birds of all kinds ; which is accounted 

 for by the number of marten and wild cats who live 

 here, amongst the great and nearly inaccessible 

 masses of rock, in the most perfectly undisturbed 

 security. Cuckoos, wheatears, and ring-ousels seemed 

 to be almost the only feathered inhabitants, with an 

 occasional pair of ravens or peregrine falcons. 



The inn at Scowrie, kept by a man of a most 

 un-Highland name, viz., " Tough," is excellent, and 

 most cleanly and comfortable did we find it, and the 

 people full of civility. Unluckily there were two 

 shiploads of emigrants on the point of leaving a 

 harbour near Scowrie, and their friends were wishing 

 them a good voyage in many a bumper of whisky, 

 with the usual accompaniment of bagpipes and reels ; 

 so that what with their songs, their music, and the 

 beating of their feet, as they danced under the in- 

 spiration both of whisky and pipes, there was a tol- 

 erable noise kept up till daylight. But mountain 

 travelling and a feeling that it was impossible and 

 unjust to be angry with the poor fellows enabled me 

 soon to sleep as comfortably as if all had been still. 



At daylight, according to appointment, I started 

 with Mr. Dunbar in the boat, but drawn by a small 

 Highland pony whose services we had engaged, for 

 the purpose of getting to the nest of the " Eagle 



