82 TOUR IN SUTHERLAND. CH. VI. 



leeward of the rocks of the peninsula on which the 

 inn is built, and, accompanied by Fred, sat some 

 time watching several vessels come in, driving like 

 leaves before the storm ; and it was a relief to my 

 mind as each vessel in her turn swung round to her 

 anchor, having weathered the head of the peninsula 

 and entered the sheltered bay formed by the land 

 on which the inn stands, where they rode in perfect 

 safety in tolerably smooth water. Notwithstanding 

 a stream which I found in the morning running 

 through my bedroom, I slept soundly enough. 

 The wind and rain had somewhat abated, and I 

 walked across the country towards a fine headland, 

 some six or eight miles off, called Whiten Head. 

 The rain coming on again obliged me to return 

 without quite reaching it. The entire coast here 

 is very grand and steep, exposed to the whole 

 force of the ocean : the rocks are cut up and 

 weather-beaten to a degree unknown in more 

 southern or more sheltered countries. 



In the course of my walk I came to the mouth of 

 the river Hope, which runs into the sea halfway 

 between Heilam and Whiten Head. The course of 

 the river is very picturesque, forming as it does a 

 green glen covered with grass and foliage in the 

 midst of the dreary gray country which surrounds 

 it. I am told that a great number of salmon ascend 



