UGANDA. AND THE NYANZA LAKES 429 



When we landed there was nothing in the hot, laughing, 

 tropical beauty of the land to suggest the grisly horror 

 that brooded so near. In green luxuriance the earth lay 

 under a cloudless sky, yielding her increase to the sun's 

 burning caresses, and men and women were living their 

 lives and doing their work well and gallantly. 



At Entebbe we stayed with the acting-governor, Mr. 

 Boyle, at Kampalla with the district commissioner, Mr. 

 Knowles; both of them veteran administrators, and the latter 



Entebbe, looking over lake 

 From a photograph by J. Alden Luring 



also a mighty hunter; and both of them showed us every 

 courtesy, and treated us with all possible kindness. En- 

 tebbe is a pretty little town of English residents, chiefly of- 

 ficials; with well-kept roads, a golf course, tennis courts, 

 and an attractive club-house. The whole place is bowered 

 in flowers, on tree, bush, and vine, of every hue masses 

 of lilac, purple, yellow, blue, and fiery crimson. Kampalla 

 is the native town, where the little King of Uganda, a boy, 

 lives, and his chiefs of state, and where the native council 

 meets; and it is the head-quarters of the missions, both 

 Church of England and Roman Catholic. 



Kampalla is an interesting place; and so is all Uganda. 

 The first explorers who penetrated thither, half a century 

 ago, found in this heathen state, of almost pure negroes, a 

 veritable semi-civilization, or advanced barbarism, compa- 



