440 AFRICAN GAME TRAILS 



where we were to camp for the night, we found a cleared 

 space strewed with straw and surrounded by a plaited reed 

 fence. Within this space cane houses, with thatched roofs 

 of coarse grass, had been erected, some for our stores, one 

 for a kitchen, one, which was always decked with flowers, 

 as a rest-house for ourselves; the latter with open sides, 

 the roof upheld by cane pillars, so that it was cool and com- 

 fortable, and afforded a welcome shelter, either from the 

 burning sun if the weather was clear, or from the pelting, 

 driving tropical storms if there \vas rain. The moon was 

 almost full when we left Kampalla, and night after night 

 it lent a half unearthly beauty to the tropical landscape. 



Sometimes in the evenings the mosquitoes bothered us; 

 more often they did not; but in any event we slept well 

 under our nettings. Usually at each camp we found either 

 the head chief of the district, or a sub-chief, with presents; 

 eggs, chickens, sheep, once or twice a bullock, always pine- 

 apples and bananas. The chief was always well dressed 

 in flowing robes, and usually welcomed us with dignity 

 and courtesy (sometimes, however, permitting the courtesy 

 to assume the form of servility) ; and we would have him 

 in to tea, where he was sure to enjoy the bread and jam. 

 Sometimes he came in a rickshaw, sometimes in a kind of 

 wicker-work palanquin, sometimes on foot. When we left 

 his territory we made him a return gift. 



We avoided all old camping grounds, because of the 

 spirillum tick. This dangerous fever tick is one of the 

 insect scourges of Uganda, for its bite brings on a virulent 

 spirillum fever which lasts intermittently for months, 

 and may be accompanied by partial paralysis. It is com- 

 mon on old camping grounds and in native villages. The 

 malarial mosquitoes also abound in places; and repeated 

 attacks of malaria pave the way for black water fever, 

 which is often fatal. 



The first day's march from Kampalla led us through 

 shambas, the fields of sweet-potatoes and plantations of 

 bananas being separated by hedges or by cane fences. Then 



