1869. 



NEW ENGLAND FAElffiR. 



427 



bark, about an inch long, then a cross-cut, in 

 the form of a letter T. It is well to make the 

 cross-cut in a circular form, as in the figures 

 a, d, that the band may cross the cut. With 

 the ivory at the end of the knife-handle, raise 

 the bark a little at each corner, below the 

 cross-cut. If one has not a budding-knife, 

 this miy be done with a piece of sharpened 

 hard wood or with the knife-blade. Lift up 

 the bark, not force the instrument between the 

 baik and wood, and disturb the cambium or 

 new layer of soft matter. 



Hold the but of the scion from yon, and 

 inserr, the knife about one-half an inch below 

 the bud that is next the but-end, and with a 

 gentle curve cut about to the depth of one- 

 quarter the diameter of the scion — more in 

 small, soft, or rather green scions, and less in 

 large scions of firm or ripened wood — and 

 bring out the knife about one-half an inch 

 above the bud. Then put the bud under the 

 bark, and slide it down the vertical slit till the 

 bud is a little below the cross-cut ; then, if 

 any of the bark remain above the cross-cut ; 

 cut it off there, making a neat fit. 



where but few stalks are budded. The soft 

 bark of elm and other trees answers a good 

 purpose. Many procure mats, such as are 

 used in the city for packing furniture, wet and 

 cut it into suitable lengths. 



In ten or twenty days after budding, accord- 

 ing to the vigor of the stock, the bud will have 

 united with the stock, and if the band binds 

 closely, so as to cut into the bark, it must be 

 loosened and re-tied as before. If ihe bud 

 has dried and shrivelled, the stock may be 

 re-budded, if the bark peels. In ubout three 

 weeks after budding, if the bud is well united 

 to the stock, the band may be removed. But 

 if it does not bind, it may remain. If it re- 

 mains on during winter, the ice is more likely 

 to gather around the band, and in- 

 jure the bud. As the bark of the 

 cherry curls, the b nd needs to re- 

 main on longer than on other stocks. 



In the spring, from the bursting 

 of buds to the leaves becoming half 

 sizc^, cut off the stock in which the 

 bud is good, to wittjin two or three 

 inches of the bud, and when the bud 

 has started, tie it to the stump, if 

 it inclines off. Keep down the 

 sprouts ; and in July, cut off the Q^^^g 

 stump even with the bud, as at the Bud. 

 line a, and keep down both sprouts and suck- 

 ers. 



a The stock prepared for the hud. 6 The bud with the 

 wood tateu out. c The bud with the wo<'d in 

 d The stock with the bud inserted, e Ttie block with 

 the bud tied in. 



Wind the matting closely around the stock, 

 so as to cover all the vertical and transverse 

 cut, barely leaving the bud uncovered ; tie 

 with one bow-knot on the same side as the 

 bud. Bud on any side excepting the south, 

 ■where the sun may injure the bud in warm 

 days in winter. 



We think that the new beginner will do best 

 not to attempt to remove the wood frcm the 

 bud after cutting it from the scion, as there is 

 danger of injuring the bud in doing so. 



For bands, cotton wicking, woolen yarn, 

 strips of cotton or woolen cloth are often used 



Maxurixg an Orciiakd. — I take a time in 

 the fjill, after the fiuit nas been jsathered, or 

 in early spring, when other work is not press- 

 ing, and strew some kind of grain in the grass 

 beneath the trees; then, with team, draw a 

 load of woods-mold to each tree, and turn in 

 the hogs, or if I have none, allow my neigh- 

 bors to turn theirs in and get the grain. The 

 result is, the mold is tborougbly worked into 

 the soil by the rooting of the swine. 



Only a few need be dressed in this way each 

 season ; take one row, for mstance. this year, 

 and another the next. One day's woik every 

 year, given to the cultivation of an apple or- 

 chard of one hundred trees, in this way, will 

 keep it in vigorous growth, and, of course 

 very productive. — Qor. Ohio Farmer. 



— In making or selecting a fork handle, have the 

 heaviest part about one-third the distance from 

 the tines to the end, as this is the point where the 

 greatest strength is needed. Hoe handles should 

 be just a trifle the largest a little above the center 

 or at the point where the right hand comes. Sec- 

 ond growth white ash is the best material for fork, 

 rake and hoe handles. 



